The unique volcanic formations and ecosystems on Jeju Island have ensured the place a spot on the list of UNESCO WHS. For those with less expertise in geology or biology, this translates into “beautiful landscape with a lot of hiking opportunities”. The enlistment includes three different sites: Mount Hallasan, the Lava Tunnels and the tuff cone Seonsang Ilchulbong. My time on the island did only allow me to visit two of them which means that I skipped the Lava Tunnels. Those who love hiking and the joy of (almost) unspoilt nature while not missing the infrastructure of the civilized world will enjoy this place as I did in 2015.

In South Korea, hiking paths are often installed in a way that they are separated from their surrounding landscape, either by a low physical barrier like a fence or dense vegetation. This allows hikers to enjoy nature while making sure that they stay on the path and do not destroy the environment. In case of Seonsang Ilchulbong, where a unique ecosystem of plants and animals has established itself, it means that there is one viewing platform from which you can look into the crater – no less, but no more. Some therefore may be disappointed that they climb up (20 minutes) all the way for a short, yet stunning view. The hiking paths on Mount Hallasan are similar. Here however, the hike up is already an attraction with all the different vegetations and climatic regions. Also, on the uppermost stretches, the infrastructure diminishes and the paths become bare paths without barriers. That means that there is not only much more to see but also more space compared to Seonsang Ilchulbong.

Most South Koreans love hiking, therefore expect both mentioned places to be full on a sunny day – but only on the smaller Seongsan Ilchulbong you may get the feeling that is is overcrowded. Both sites charge you a small entry fee and have touristic infrastructure like toilets, snack bars and souvenir shops. Note that on Mount Hallasan, these are available on the lower stretches of the path. Other things you have to notice on Mount Hallasan is that they will not let you in (or limit your access up to a certain checkpoint which has to be reached before 12:30!) if you arrive so late that you won't manage to get up and down again before sunset. Also, there are several gates to the Mount Hallasan National Park and several main hiking paths, each with a different name. As of 2021, only two of them (Seongpanak and Gwaneumsa) lead all the way up to the summit. It is recommended to visit the park's website in order to check opening times and eventual path closures beforehand. I planned to go up Seongpanak and go down on Gwaneumsa but was surprised by a path closure and had to use Seongpanak up and down.

Seonsang Ilchulbong and Mount Hallasan (Seongpanak Trail) are easily accessible by public transport. Even without any knowledge of the Korean language, the bus system is easy to use and you should have no problem fining the right stop to alight. In case of doubt, just get off at the place where most people with tracksuits are leaving.