Churches of the Pskov School of Architecture by Alexander Barabanov
Visited this site in July 2019 exactly during the weekend when Pskov was inscribed. However, most local guides were quite sure that Pskov was already inscribed for a while. I concentrated on 10 churches recommended by ICOMOS for inscription. As I understood, there was a bit of mess whether 10 sites or all 18 proposed were finally inscribed. Now the official site shows 10 locations. In overall, Pskov and Nogvorod white churches, not influenced by Mongol invasion, have distinct features (like thick walls, unusual bell towers), as compared to traditional ones. The majority of the monuments date back to 15th and 16th centuries, but the most interesting one, in my opinion, is the oldest – Transfiguration Cathedral of the Spaso-Mirozhsky Monastery has clear Byzantine origins of the 12th century and as the most impressive frescos of all sites. This Cathedral is open from 11:00 until 18:00 and costs 200 rubles. The Cathedral is closed for visit in case of rain, fog, snowfall and high humidity in order to preserve impressive 12th century frescos painted by the Greek masters.
The Cathedral of the Nativity of the Mother of God of the Snetogorsky Monastery also has some 14th century frescos, but they’re much less preserved and this church is closed for restoration works as of July 2019, we were let in by chance by one of the nuns.
We also managed to enter inside a number of other churches, but they are not very impressive inside, however outside architecture is quite similar. Some churches are active religious sites with orthodox services and worships.
In overall, we liked Pskov with its fortified walls, numerous churches and lazy provincial atmosphere. The sites are concentrated around historical center with only exception of the Snetogorsky Monastery located 6 km to the north. Most churches received a lot of damage during the war and especially during the Soviet times, but now being returned to the church and put to restoration.
Some interesting fact, Church of Theophany with a belfry was visited in 1961 by Le Corbusier and impressed him most.
For some traditional and tasty food, I highly recommend Dvor Pozdnoeva, which has four (!) thematic places to eat: Trapeznye Palaty (upscale food); Pivnya Palaty (beerhall); Kofeinye Palaty (excellent self-made cakes); Pirogovye Palaty (pies).