Unfortunately I couldn't attend WHS get-together event, as I booked the trip to Solovetsky islands, my old and much wanted target. The trip was by air, through Arkhangelsk first and then by a bit scaring 40-years old AN-24 turboprop airplane.

So-called airport (in fact, just tiny wooden blue construction) is located just 1 km away from the monastery, which immediately dominates the skyline and creates fairytale spiritual atmosphere.

We explored the monastery and the island for the 2 days, however the weather was quite rainy and changed so quickly that we haven't completed our bike tour to the Northern part of the island.

The main island is not a much visited place by toursits even in August (mainly we met pilgirms). Howver during our stay we intersected several time with a brave group of 20 British tourists, mainly pensioners, who were visiting a number of interesting places on the Russian North (Kizhi and Ferapontonv included). We chattered a bit and advised to visit special exhibition in Arkhangelsk, where they were heading next, dedicated to 75th anniversary of Dervish - American-British Ally marine convoy, which during the war transported numerous strategic aid to the USSR. This help will always be kept with remembrance and endless respect.

Unfortunately, the monastery is currently under repairs ladders (till 2017), and the pictures will not be so photogenic as in the books. 3-hour excursion to the monastery is worth 450 Roubles (6.5 Euro). There is quite an extensive excursion program around the islands in both decent hotels on the island, Solovetskaya Sloboda and Solovki-Hotel. In order to cover all the interesting sites (including neighboring islands) at least a week is required. From June till mid-July there is possibility (northern weather permitting) to go on white whail-watching boat tour. Also we recommend to visit Marine museum (opposite monastery), which has interesting collection from every day life of "pomors" - coast-dweller, who inhabited this area.

I was a little bit dissapointed, because out of 5 churches inside the monastery, only one is accessible nowadays, and unfortunately no original interior has left, everything was destroyed during dark and sad Soviet GULAG times. Currently there is temporary iconostasis, which will be replaced by 2017 with the new original one. The area inside seems in process of revitalization and improvement.

In any case, the severe and moss-covered towers and walls constructed with huge boulders provide deep and lasting impression. The monastery (probably could be compared to Skelig) is the living testimony of faith and spirit triumph in the extreme surrounding conditions just 150 km away from the Polar Circle. We liked the place and surely hope to return for a longer stay to cover numerous attractions and sites in the area. Our local tasty favorites not to be missed – Solovetsky herring and cod cake washed with local liqueurs made from cloudberries and cowberries.