I made a last-minute decision to visit Levuka when I found myself in Suva with a few extra days to spare.  Previous reviewers have already described the town well. I found it more functional and active than I was expecting. Sure it is small, but the mid/late-19th century wooden colonial architecture along Beach St. reminded me of a displaced gold rush town like the ones I'd recently been visiting back home. Unlike those, which often have a ghost town "museum" feel to them, Levuka is simply trapped in time and very relaxed and friendly. I got a walking tour map from the New Mavida Lodge where I stayed (in the one remaining original structure and not the newer, larger section) which proudly pointed out Fiji's firsts: the first government-run school, post office, police station, town hall, social club, etc. In many cases the buildings have been repurposed but everything is still in use and refreshingly lacks any touristic focus. I am not sure how often it runs but on the Friday and Saturday that I visited, there was even a small vegetable market set up along the waterfront across the road from the historic core. Overall I enjoyed my visit and found it to be a great and relatively easy escape from touristic Nadi and busy Suva with 1 night just the right amount of time. 

As of Sept 2024 when I visited, there are 2 trips/day with Goundar Shipping from Suva. They have a small ticket booth at the bus station and I was able to buy tickets the evening before for a 6am departure. The trip involves a 2 hr bus ride to the tiny Natovi pier and almost 2 hour ferry to the Levuka wharf. There is also an afternoon departure at around 1:30pm. Returning from Levuka the ferry departs early morning and at 2:30pm.  For those in a rush it should be possible to visit as a day trip (not recommended) departing at 6am with an arrival at ~11am in Levuka. A quick walk around town and lunch before catching the 2:30pm ferry back would give enough time to cover the architectural highlights and get back into Suva at sunset.