First published: 13/06/19.

Ammon Watkins 2.5

San Agustín

San Agustín (Inscribed)

San Agustín by Els Slots

We were happy to reach San Agustin at the end of our bumpy 5 hr ride from Popayan. The town of San Agustin itself is nothing to get too excited about but the surrounding area is beautiful so I'd recommend staying just outside of town at one of the nicer and quieter resorts or above town to enjoy the views during your down time. 

The WHS consists of 3 sites which we saw over 2 days. Our first visit was to the main archaeological park 3km out of town. The entry fee is a bit much at 50,000 pesos but is valid for 2 days and all 3 sites. There is a nice museum on site and overall the sites are well maintained and presented though English signage is limited so read up ahead of time or hire a guide at the entrance.

Not a lot is known about the San Agustin culture but they were clearly very skilled artisans. The main attractions are the numerous statues on display, each one unique and displaying various human and animalistic features and symbols, the meaning of which archaeologists are still debating. I enjoyed them more than I'd expected but found the sites a little hard to grasp and connect with since they consist of scattered burial chambers all carefully fenced off and covered for protection with manicured lawn between them. There is little sign of any connecting life, villages, buildings or "ruins" suggesting a community or culture other than a few clay pots in the museum. There is lots of walking involved and it took us about 3 hours to visit the area.

The other 2 sites are closer to the town of Isnos and are most easily visited as part of a full day jeep/van tour that stops at multiple other places (waterfalls, etc) as well. Quicker options include private driver or hiring a motorbike but the roads can be rough. Both sites are much smaller and we enjoyed them but don't really add much if you are pressed for time. 

Overall a nice experience and worthy of its WHS status.

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