I visited Canaima National Park in August 2009. The landscape is stunning--the mysterious cloud covered tepuis, the many waterfalls, including Angel Falls that fall from the heights and the canyons and rivers. My perspective was from the ground and water--a three hour or so canoe trip to the Angel Falls with some rapids, though nothing too dangerous, from Canaima airport, a night camping and sleeping in hammocks at the base of the falls, with about 60 other people. The various tours that converge on this site can get crowded but the operators space the hiking trips so groups do not feel too crowded while on the paths but some may chafe at the assembly line nature of the usual 3 day, two night tour package. It's not ideal but really the only way to get to the falls and see a little of the park.The hour or so hike to the base of Angel Falls is not too strenous but there are some steep stretches that some might find tiring. As this was the rainy season (characterized by heavy downfalls in the afternoon and often at night) there were some slippery spots.

The drop from the top of the tepui is mesmerizing. The stream of water unfolds like a curtain and then vanishes into mist. It's possible to swim at the base of the falls, but due to the angle it's not possible to look up and see the entire drop. In addition to visits to the falls there are many tour operators in Ciudad Bolivar who offer other options for visits to the park and surrounding areasthat may not be so crowded with a variety of accomodations and prices starting at about $250. It's cheapest to book tours from that city. I booked my tour at the bus station (most of the operators are located at the airport) at 6 AM, right after the operator opened for business and was on my way at 7:30 AM the same day. There is an entry fee to the park, currently about $7.00 at the "unofficial" (i.e. black market) rate. Most tours include trips to Sapo Falls including a great walk behind the falls where buckets of water will blow up against you--a lot of fun.

The regularly scheduled flights from Ciudad Bolivar to Canaima may fly by the falls also and allow a glimpse if the day is clear. The clouds can roll in and cover the falls one minute then disappear the next.

By the way, Jimmy Angel's plane is back at the airport in Ciudad Bolivar.