We went to the ruins in 1974 and we camped next to them.

We climbed everywhere and I don't remember seeing a tour guide. I traveled with three architectual students. We were all awed. We loved the place. It was so quiet and the spaces so still. I didn't find it alien but a warm place where a people danced and sang and lived. The stones are so beautifully made and the sun and shadow so contrived to constrain and free the person. We knew the official view of the origin on the ruins but didn't believe a word of it.