I have been there many times over the years. The first time was nearly 50 years ago, when I was still a teen. A local fisherman from the village where I was staying, a man with only 1/2 a year of formal education but the town intellectual, took me on buses into Guadalajara and to the Hospicio. There, he proceeded to explain the murals to me. That's not something I could forget.

But the murals themselves are, of course, magnificent. Yes, the centerpiece are the four elements, focusing on the Man of Fire. But one of my favorites involves a Spanish priest holding a cross, which below his hand is a knife plunging into the back of a kneeling Indian.

Now the entire place is an art museum, and a world heritage site. I won't describe: go see!