I visited Ukhahlamba/Drakensberg Park a year ago with a Canadian friend. We stayed at Giant's Castle, a rest camp management by KwaZulu-Natal Wildlife. The mountains towered above us in a grand and barren way, with thickly overgrown gorges marking the folds in the mountains like creases in an old overcoat. The blue of the sky was unmatched by anything I've ever experienced and the brightness of the Milkyway on a moonless night equally so.

Our time there was limited, so we took only one hike - to see the rock art in some caves about 30 mins away from the camp. En route we saw an eland bull - just across a deep gorge. He was fully aware of us, and completely relaxed - he knew the value of a gorge between himself and two humans. We arrived too late to participate in the tour of the caves, but it didn't matter: the hike and the scenery and the eland were well worth it.

The accommodation was good - all chalets have an unobstructed view, and each vista is special in its own way. We had a very effective fireplace (necessary at night in the mountains in May), and great duvets on the beds. We slept with the curtains wide open, so that not a single sight of the great mountains would be lost.

There was a small problem with a scavenging baboon who threatened us - a typical problem when camp management is slack about clearing out garbage.

Would I go back? Yes and yes again!!