I went to the Mogao Grottoes more than years ago, and I wish I had paid more attention to it, because it surely was one of the best places I had ever visited.

The paintings and artworks were fabulous, to say the least, unfortunately I hadn't quite grasped their historical significance back then. The tour group my family was travelling with could all speak and understand Chinese quite well, but the guides in general are not very helpful and tend to rush their speeches through, especially when speaking in Chinese. The many historical words associated with the cave did not make my understanding very much clearer either. But I did love the artworks in the cave, and wish I could have taken some photos, or had time to do some sketches. The sculptures are truly enormous and awe-inspiring, as well as the huge caves covered from floor to ceiling with the most colourful murals. It's amazing how the paint has managed to even retain colour through the centuries; much of the artworks of bygone eras have faded beyond redemption!

We went in autumn, the only season where non-locals could possibly survive (Dunhuang is located in a scorching desert which freezes over each night) so with that season being the most popular tourist season, it was rather crowded, however tours were spaced well apart to give each group some private viewing time and not have to all cram into a single cave. There were maybe 2 or 3 groups in a cave/ temple at one time, which isn't so bad perhaps, comparing those numbers to what you might get in a palace room at the Forbidden city at ANY given time.

Then again, seeing some of the smashed and vandalised paintings made me quite sad, remembering the atrocities foreigners have committed on Chinese soil. Seriously, I'm not trying to offend anyone personally, but none of the eight countries were very kind about their relations with China. Sections of cave walls had been torn off completely, and while I shudder to think of what could have happened to it, it's probably in London or the Louvre somewhere. I guess the Mogao Caves are not only a representation of Buddhist art and culture, it is also a reminder of some uglier events of modern history. But while this train of thought is quite gloomy, it helps remind one that such beauty is a fragile and delicate thing, but can still shine after a thousand years of existence.