I loved the long walk up the hill to the fortress, and another long walk up another forested hill to Stefan Zweig's house. I have never been in a city with so many squares opening onto each other. The towers and squares charmed me. The marionette show of a Mozart opera, "The Magic Flute," and a string quartet concert at the fortress were highlights of Salzburg, as was the view of the fortress from the Mirabell gardens. I also enjoyed a cheesy four-hour bus tour of the places where the Sound of Music was shot, including a pretty Salzkammergut village where Maria's wedding was filmed.