I visited San Miguel de Allende in Feb of 2010 as part of a photography workshop put on by two professional photographers from my home area. Every year they take a group to San Miguel. Shortly before I left I had occasion to speak with one of the students from a previous year; in parting he said “San Miguel will change your life”. I must admit I had to fight to keep a straight face thinking ‘a bit dramatic don’t you think?’ However after two weeks in the colonial town (heck, after my first morning) I was a believer; San Miguel is magic.

While there is a large influx of North Americans, either temporarily or permanently, they don’t come close to outnumbering the locals whose warm welcomes and gracious attitudes are as much a part of San Miguel’s charms as are the narrow cobblestone streets and rooftop cafes. If the world was once black and white then colour was invented in San Miguel. From the warm yellow and orange walls draped with vibrant bougainvillea to the pink spires of La Parroquia to the many lively marketplaces, colour is everywhere in San Miguel. The only times I encountered anything close to a crowd was on Sundays when I joined the locals in La Jardín for a festival (a real highlight) and when I joined a hoard of visitors at La Biblioteca for their weekly home tour (something I would in the future avoid at all costs).

Walking is the best way to explore but there is an abundance of taxis that will take you anywhere in the city for a mere 25 pesos. There are also several companies that offer a car service that can take you to any number of fascinating places all within an hour or less drive of San Miguel. There is the capitol city of Guanajuato and Pozos, a sort of ghost town of abandoned mines and haciendas that has undergone a resurgence as an artist community. Of course a visit to San Miguel wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the beautiful El Santuario de Atotonilco. The day I made the trek we arrived early and waited for the church to open. We weren’t disappointed when at the appointed hour a little old nun slowly opened the massive wooden doors like she has no doubt done year after year. Don’t be fooled by the dirt road town or the nondescript exterior of the church, the inside is breathtaking. While this is the pièce de résistance of the area’s churches, San Miguel itself is full of gems well worth exploring and not just the obvious ones. Check out Templo de Santa Ana with its small quiet burial crypts unceremoniously tucked in next to the busy Biblioteca. All the churches are free of charge but rely on donations so always be sure to drop some pesos in the box before leaving.

Eating is never a problem in San Miguel and water is either bottled or filtered; I ordered water by the glass with no worries. While there are many restaurant cuisines available don’t be afraid to by local in the marketplaces and be sure and visit some of the more traditional spots like Olé Olé on Loreto for aracherra or the ‘Blue Door’ bakery for a cream horn or other Mexican pastry delight.

So if you want to experience the best of Mexico skip the resorts and consider experiencing the magic of San Miguel and like me, you will anxiously await the day you return.