I was privileged to go there in the late 1960's before it was a park, before it had roads, and while those relatively few living there were pastoralists or researchers 1-2 days' serious trek from the nearest road. Then, as apparently now (according to the reviews here and to my children who recently hiked in), it was a place of dramatic and remote beauty, steep in its rifts, and far from the chatter of the man-made world -- in short, spectacular. Outstanding for me still, after many travels around the globe.