Christmas Eve and Christmas Day at Taos Pueblo are among the most transforming experiences of my long life. My husband and I, with my daughter, son-in-law, and three grandchildren, were overcome by the beauty of the church service, the wild glory of the bonfires, and the mystery of the dances. We have also attended the San Geronimo pole climb twice. Another treasured memory: sacred clowns on the roofs of the pueblo, the unparalleled courage of the young men at the pole climb, and, as always, the kind welcome of the Taos Puebloans.