''Less is more'', they say. To me it seemed feasible to cover Noto and Modica by train with enough time to return and sleep in Catania, but then I was told at the train station: "Yes, there is a train doing Siracusa-Catania at those hours, but you cannot get a ticket for it. If you go to Modica, you will have to spend the night in Siracusa''. Right. Change of plans, skipping Modica and getting more time in Catania.

Since reviews have been written on Noto, I will just say that as of June 2021 the Duomo's renovation is done (the cupola has hipster-saints, if you ask me) and they are renovating now San Domenico (the one in Els and Ian's photos). 

I found OUV in Catania as well. Noto's balconies reminded me of Valletta, Catania's Benedictine Monastery reminded me of nothing - I haven't seen those grey walls with white baroque details before. Underneath the peel you won't find limestone, but lava rocks. Catania's baroque was shaped in the aftermath of 1693, but with the help of Etna as well.

Which are the monuments? Sant'Agata Cathedral (Cappella della Vergine needs booking in advance, Cappella di Sant'Agata is open outside of mass times) Palazzo degli Elefanti (the City Hall) and Palazzo del Seminario dei Chierici (Museo Diocesano) in Piazza del Duomo with u Liotru in the middle (the elephant is maybe Carthaginian or bizantine, add possible inspiration from Bernini's in Rome for the monument and voilà), Chiesa della Badia di Sant'Agata next to the cathedral (you can climb for a view of the city, 5 euro cash only), Palazzo Biscari and Basilica Collegiata in opposite directions from the square, from Collegiata you are close to via dei Crociferi (churches of San Benedetto, San Giuliano, San Francesco Borgia + Jesuit College - congratulations to whomever comes back with great photos from that narrow street) and you can then walk straight to the Benedictine Monastery (pictured, hosting the Department of Humanities of the University of Catania, has guided tours) together with its church of San Nicolò l'Arena.

As for food, Ragusa is famous for its 2* Michelin restaurant, Modica for its chocolate (without cocoa butter and with undissolved sugar, this is not your typical Milka), while the fans of Chef's Table will find Corrado Assenza's Caffè Sicilia in Noto (if you want 3 flavours for gelato and you have nobody to share it with, be ready to sacrifice your diet and order 2 ice creams because they only give you 2 flavours per cornetto/cup). Everybody knows Catania's pasta, and some good local wine (sorry, Els) should help you get over the fact that you're eating (the dessert version of) a saint's breast.