Curious: the name of this site implies that the main sight is the church, which just so happens to include Da Vinci's version of the Last Supper. This might be historically true, as Leonardo was commissioned to do a painting in the Dominicans' refectory: an important piece, but still for private contemplation by the monks only, and in a sense, however important, a decorative element of a bigger church. But then, the Artist set in and decided that this would not have been your ordinary painting. And so, if there once was a painting as part of a convent complex, now we rather have a convent complex and church functioning as the frame for one of the most famous paintings in the world.

Visit technicalities and suggestions

The visit is very simple and straightforward, almost minimalistic, once you have a ticket. The gist of it has been expounded by other reviewers and seems to be well known: there is only one official site and seller from where you can buy the ticket (standard price currently, summer 2021, at 15€... 1€ per minute of visit!) after having registered, and, normally, as access is extremely limited, you have to plan that with ample advance (months), even if there always is a small chance for last-minute tickets (try calling them directly; calling for information is always a good idea anyway). Normally; but in the last year, due to the pandemic, since the museum finally reopened, the number of visitors has dropped so much that until recently it was possible to book a visit at a decent hour (for example, I'm not considering 8:30 of a Sunday morning a decent hour) with minimal advance (few days). Things have changed yet again and right now bookings are opened each Saturday for the following week only, but this should still leave time to get a ticket until at least Wednesday. I wonder how this trend will evolve in the future: I can foresee that it will remain easy to book a visit for quite a long time, and who knows if this weekly model will be appreciated in the long run. Respect the protocol (e.g. presenting yourself 15 minutes earlier), because they are strict with respect to that.

Anyway, doing a research, you will find lots of other offers which include wider guided tours and at much higher (i.e. overflated) prices: my heartfelt suggestion is to ignore them as much as you can. Most of it is just speculation and not worth it. My other suggestion is to ignore even official guided tours: take those precious 15 minutes all for your personal contemplation, without anyone talking over it. If you like so, download the audioguide, but anyway, there's ample information about the painting that you can comfortably refer to before or after your visit (and conversely, just very essential information on place).

Santa Maria delle Grazie is most easily reached by any means of transportation but by car (hey, one would be crazy to drive inside Milan's center!!!), as it is quite central. I have a fondness for trams, so I can just recommend, especially from Duomo, to take tram no. 16 (which is the same tram which will bring you to San Siro for a good AC Milan match afterwards!); also no. 19 works.

The Last Supper: finally in front of it!

Yes! But: remember to turn your back and give some attention also to the wonderful Crucifixion by Montorfano on the opposite wall of the refectory! Truly a colourful masterpiece, too, and definitely part of this WHS!, so different from but overshadowed by its much more famous neighbour. I would say that a split of your precious time of 10 minutes for the Last Supper and 5 for the Crucifixion could be a good compromise. There are very few written lines of explanations in the refectory: no more are needed.

Both paintings have survived the hardships of WW2 nearly by miracle (you will see pictures of those times in the hall before entering) and are substantially the only things of notice left of this part of the convent. This, coupled with the soft lighting and the magnetic perspective of the "main" painting, has as a result a mostly bare room with a total focus on both masterpieces, delivering a great experience. The Cenacolo in particular is living a new life after its last, ultimate, legendary, ventennial restoration works directed by Pinin Brambilla Barcilon from 1977 to '99, which saved it from critical deterioration. Unfortunately, damage and decay were so extensive that its once again bright and light colours (heavily criticised by some art historians when they were revealed in '99) and the whole composition come to us noticeably obfuscated through the veil of time. But I suspect that this, together with the fact that the very first cause of decay is the unusual technique attempted by the meticulous Leonardo himself (who did not like the fresco technique because it forced him to paint too quick), just greatly contributes to the fascination that the Last Supper has exerted through the centuries.

I would like to leave for musing one of many interpretations of this not really so aenigmatic painting, maybe a lesser known one, an astrological one. The twelve Apostles are depicted in four groups of three: if Jesus is the Sun, then they can be seen as the zodiacal signs grouped according to their elements (fire, earth, water, air), and in particular each Apostle represents a sign with its qualities; these qualities themselves might be emobodied by each Apostle's behaviour and physiognomy, according to a long tradition of iatroastrological studies. Leonardo surely knew something about that, as the XVth and XVIth centuries were frenzied by the rebirth of astrology in Europe. So is there something true about this interpretation? Who knows!

Universal value?

As this is an artistic masterpiece with such a particular and troubled story with a happy ending, I cannot but rate it high. But is it really worthy of WHS status? Here I am more skeptical and I think that some Western bias played in its favour. If one reads the official UNESCO description (inscription dating back to 1980), it seems that its inclusion was deemed to be just obvious: everybody knows the Last Supper, it is perfect, so obviously it needs to be there. But, maybe we Europeans are overestimating its scope: I believe most of the fame of the Cenacolo comes from the fact that it represents such a pivotal episode of the Christian narration, which is itself so deeply entrenched into (Western) European culture; the rest of its fame comes from the capricious character and choices of its creator and this latter's unquestionable artistic prowess. All fiction and wacky interpretations about the Last Supper eventually revolve around occult and religious concepts tied to Christianity and possessing an everlasting allure, not around the painting itself. The Last Supper alone may not say anything at all to the rest of the world. Beyond that, the Renaissance church Santa Maria delle Grazie, though one of the most beautiful in Milan and Italy, is not WHS-worthy by itself, in my opinion less so than the nearby Basilica of Sant'Ambrogio.

So, the Last Supper may be the most beautiful (?) and interesting existing depiction of this scene, but apart from this probably subjective evaluation, its contribution to art history may lie more in the last restoration works than in its original (botched!) technique! I admit I might be speaking out of ignorance and playing the "role of the belittler" here, and that such reasonings might horrify some people, but, in the end, I would not object to the Last Supper being pruned from The List. As I would not object to it continuing to stay there. But its supposed unicity actually boils down to a whim of history, not to a true merit in its creation. Some statements from the official description like "it is one of the first classic paintings that focuses on a precise and very short moment of time, instead of a long one" and "[it] is considered to have heralded a new phase in the history of art" sound extremely stretched to me.

Anyway, leaving the previous discussion as food for thought, let me clarify that the Last Supper is definitely an extremely valid reason to come visit Milan!

Beyond the Cenacolo

As mentioned, Santa Maria delle Grazie, despite the co-nomination, could be considered a separate site. It is a splendid church and it surely deserves a visit - much easier to get in than the Cenacolo, don't miss it! It is very harmonious, both outside and inside, well-kept (it was very recently restored) and more than the beautiful pieces of art it contains, it strikes for its serene atmosphere and light. The left side of the church was destroyed during the bombardments of WW2, as most of the convent, and later reconstructed, but overall the church is in a good pristine shape. There is an adorable cloister (the chiostro delle rane 'frogs' cloister') that, if not accessible, you can glimpse from via Caradosso, behind the church.

This is one of the most interesting (also just for walking in the alleys) and historically pregnant neighbourhoods of Milan: not far you have the Triennale (design and art museum) in Parco Sempione, the Castello Sforzesco, the Basilica di Sant'Ambrogio, the Archaeological museum with remnants of the Roman circus and walls, the wonderfully painted San Maurizio, the huge national Science & Technology museum... Some of these places, the legend goes, were connected by secret subterranean tunnels used by Leonardo himself to reach his works at any hour of day and night. In front of the church, there is also a much promoted "Leonardo's Vineyard", which, well, nice it is nice, but it actually has nearly nothing to do with Da Vinci (it s a Renaissance/modern house with garden) and is too pricey, if you don't somehow have a discount.

But what I would describe as surprisingly the best companion to a visit to the Last Supper and passionately suggest, is a visit to the Leonardo3 Museum, in the Galleria, at a corner of Piazza della Scala. The ushers and banners at the entrance may make it look like a tourist trap, but, as I very serendipitously learnt, it is all the contrary! It is a vibrant and original museum chock-full of working models and reconstructions of Leonardo's inventions and interactive panels in a wonderful location. Some things can also be played with. There's so much that you can get lost, plan all the time you need for it!! Anyway, with regard to the Last Supper, the most relevant thing is an entire, dedicated room with 3D virtual models, explanations and demonstrations of the current and reconstructed original appearance of the painting and of the myriad details and interpretations it contains. Greatly recommended, as long as it stays there!

 

UPDATE 2023: visits are now back to regular trimester-by-trimester bookings, and they are again filling up very quickly. The laid back times of booking from one week to the other are gone! Now, for example, bookings for May/June/July open in mid-March, for August/September/October in mid-June, and so on. So prior planning is needed. Still give a look at possible free places, though, since something might open up. Good luck!

 

PHOTO: Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie in autumn.