We visited Ani (on the UNESCO list since 2016) in February 2020.  We had travelled on the Eastern Express Train from Ankara to Kars and then another 42km to the site (a public transport bus leaves from Gazi Ahmet Muhtar Paşa Konağı in Kars).  Many people had advised us to make this trip in winter because the snow covered plains and mountains are spectacular to watch.   Indeed, the journey through the winter landscape of Anatolia, and when arriving in Ani the contrast between the ruins in dark brown and grey stone, the white blanket of snow across the ancient city against a deep blue sky in the bright sun light, was impressive despite the biting cold with temperatures far below zero.

With roots going back to the Chalcolithic period, Ani, the medieval capital of the Bagratid Kingdom of Armenia is located at the old Silk Road in the East of Turkey, right on the border with Armenia - you actually can see the border posts on the other side; the city is situated in rather dramatic surroundings at 1300m above sea level, on its eastern side protected by a ravine and on its western side by a valley.  

Its heydays were in the 10th and 11th centuries before the city of a thousand churches as it was called with more than 100,000 inhabitants was destroyed by the Mongols in 1236.  After several periods of revival the city was finally abandoned in the 18th century.  In recent history it was part of Russia, Armenia and since 1921 of Turkey.   

The entrance to the site is at the old city gate in the village of Anikoyu (Ocaklı Köyü) and leads you through the ancient fortifications.  You step out into bright sunlight and can see the vast expense of the city with its highlights sticking out of the horizon.  Walking through the site (you need at least two to three hours) you pass the Church of the Holy Redeemer which was split in half by lightning; the Church of St Gregory of Tigran Honents - it stands half way down to the ravine and in winter it can be quite slippery getting down the step but the frescoes with scenes from the Bible and the life of St Gregory in and outside the building are all the worth the climbing; the Ani Cathedral which is the largest standing building in Ani, despite its collapsed dome and other damage is still an imposing structure; the Mosque of Menüçehr with its tall minaret, from its well preserved gallery you have a clear view down into valley where you can see the Silk Road Bridge and the Monastery of the Virgins; from here you get to the old market from where you see in the distance the beautiful silhouette of the small Church of St Gregory of the Abughamrents; other sites easily accessible are the Fire Temple of Zarathustra, the Church of the Holy Apostles, the caravansary, the citadel and the city walls, dating from the seventh to the thirteenth centuries. Your tour guide is likely to tell you that under the city lays a vast network of tunnels, corridors, meeting and prayer rooms; unfortunately this underground world of Ani is currently not accessible.  

In the small village outside the archaeological site you will find a tea house and wash facilities; the tourist centre was not open yet at the time of our visit; also sign postings were still to come as part of an EU-funded project. The site is open every day; during winter (1 October - 31 March) 08:00-17:00; in summer (1 April - 30 September) 08:00-19:00; e-mail: karsmuzesi@kulturturizm.gov.tr; entrance fee (at the time of our visit) was 15 Turkish Lira; in summer bring water as it gets very hot and there is little shade.  

The city of Kars with its historical assembly of buildings at the foot of the citadel; the avenues lined with Russian style buildings and the Russian military hospital church which is now a mosque; the many excellent restaurants serving goose and offering entertainment, some with local style troubadours singing to the guests; honey, cheese and carpet shops, is certainly a good starting point for exploring Ani and other sites like Sarıkamış, a modern skiing resort and battle ground in World War I; the bird paradise of Lake Kuyucuk and Lake Çıldır where in winter you can watch in the early hours of the morning fishermen hacking holes in the ice.