It’s now eight years after the 500 year celebrations of Martin Luther’s public display of his 95 theses nailed to the door of the church at the Wittenberg castle.  Calm has returned to both Wittenberg and Eisleben where six sites make up the Luther memorial WHS.  In both locations the focus is not so much on buildings and architecture as most of the original structures have undergone substantial changes over the centuries, but rather on the work, ideas and lasting impact of Martin Luther and his close companion Philipp Melanchthon.  

Wittenberg can be reached easily by train or car, from Berlin or Dresden and other big cities in the east of Germany.  We stayed at an hotel close to the Luther and Melanchthon houses.   Both places can be visited in about two hours each and consist of modern parts and the historical buildings, largely revamped in different periods.  Since a lot of writings have survived, both Luther’s and Melanchthon’s lives, teachings and tribulations, including their final hours are well documented and presented in the exhibitions. 

The exhibition in the Luther House is dedicated to Martin Luther’s life, work and his influence with more than 1000 authentic objects, showing the daily life with his family, political and theological books and treatises that changed the world in the 16th century.  While it displays the history of the Reformation quite well it’s not that convincing on the personal side of Luther’s life.  The highlight is the Luther-Stube, which remains more or less in its original state, and was his main working space, and where he received visitors for his well documented dinner talks.  

Melanchthon’s House just a few meters away from Luther’s House is a beautiful building largely with its original structure preserved.  Here he worked and lived with his family from 1536 until his death in 1560.  A modern addition houses an impressive exhibition mainly about his extensive writings in support of the Reformation but also his lasting influence on the European education system.  

Both houses can be visited with an €8 combination ticket, April-Oct daily 9-18; Nov-Mar Tue-Sun 10-17.  Note that the Luther House is closed from November 2023 to April 2025 for renovation.  The exhibits will be shown in the neighbouring Augusteum.

The two other sites in Wittenberg are churches.  St. Mary’s, the oldest building in the city, the mother church of the Reformation, where both Luther and Melanchthon were preaching and introducing the new teachings, the first mess in German was celebrated, and Luther got married to Katherina von Bora.   An impressive number of paintings by Lucas Cranach the Elder and the Younger are displayed, like the famous reformation altar painting back and front.  

The church at the Wittenberg castle is the place where the Reformation started in 1517 by Luther affixing his 95 theses to the church door.  The original door was replaced after a fire and shows now the 95 theses in bronze.  The sign posting is a bit confusing; it points to the inner courtyard but “the” door is on the street side.  The church is in a serene Neo-gothic setting (rebuilt under Prussian rule) with the tombstones of Luther and Melanchthon just before the choir stalls.  We were actually lucky to listen to a beautiful rehearsal of a group of students from the nearby youth hostel.  

Both churches can be visited with a €5 combination ticket.  Opening hours differ throughout the year and need to be checked.  

Eisleben is about 110 km from Wittenberg to the West.  Parking in various places is free but time limited ranging from several hours to 30 minutes.  In some areas a ticket needs to be purchased.  So it’s better to look out for the signs.  Two WHS sites can be visited: Luther’s birth place (born in 1483) and the house where he died in 1546.  Like in Wittenberg a modern part with a well presented exhibition in German and English and the historical parts of the original houses can be visited Apr-Oct daily from 10 to 18h and Nov-Mar Tue-Sun 10 to 17h.  A combination ticket is available for €8.

Already in the 17th century a museum existed in Luther’s birth place which makes it the oldest site dedicated to one person in Germany.  The permanent exhibition Lin a modern addition and what is now a building from the late 17th century - the original building was destroyed in a fire - is dedicated to Martin Luther’s family background.  

Luther died in yet another house in Eisleben in 1546.  Since the 18th century the current building has served as a remembrance place.  The permanent exhibition recalls Luther’s final journey and last days.  It recounts Luther’s thinking about death and also reflects on all final things. 

Wittenberg and Eisleben were relatively quiet with no waiting time or queues.  It is worth exploring other houses, like the Cranach Courts & Cranach House in Wittenberg where Lucas Cranach the Elder had his studio and print shop in the 16th century, or the Friedensreich Hundertwasser 20th century school.  The house of Luther’s parents can be visited close by in Mansfeld.   Wartburg Castle, where Luther translated the New Testament is a WHS in its own right and not too far as are a good number of other WHS.  I noticed that none of the sites displayed the UNESCO sign and asked why.  The answer was that “it is not done here ….”.

A final comment on nearby Dresden.  The city has so much to offer in a historical and cultural context, with first class collections and restored buildings which individually would deserve WHS status.  The Dresden Elbe Valley lost its WHS listing because of a new bridge across the Elbe river, which obviously was not there when Canaletto painted his 18th century panoramic views of the city, now frozen in time.  The same fate is awaiting Vienna because of a hotel that was not there when Canaletto painted the city 300 years ago ….