This is my third visit to Angkor. In my first visit I did the small circuit with a very competent guide who has had been part of many studies and documentations of the site (including as the assistant for the LIDAR scanning done by Sydney Univ.). My second visit was during the UNESCO-UNWTO Conference where we did a technical visit to Phnom Bakheng, a priority project then of the World Monument Fund, together with the project supervisor of the organization. I even then had the rarest chance of admiring Angkor in the evening when Cambodia, being the host, lit all the monuments in Angkor Thom during a dinner hosted and graced by the king. This time, I did the grand circuit, and I was still impressed with what I saw. Things that have changed since 2015, however, include: marked pathways in exploring the temples (some sites are strict about this rule, and some sanctuaries can no longer be accessed), having a lot of ticket inspectors on each site, and the single day entry, as mentioned in earlier reviews, is now at 37$ -- a strange way of commemorating Apsara Authority's 37th year anniversary and, apparently, because there are 37 steps leading to the main shrine of Angkor Wat! This move has since then discouraged a lot in taking the more expensive 3-day and 7-day passes, so more than 90% of visitors only take the single-day pass. Apsara did not stop there. Beng Mealea, which previously had its own entrance ticket, is now absorbed by the Angkor Pass. And now, even the three Angkorian period temples close to/within Siem Reap that are not even part of the buffer zone of the inscribed area have been given the standard stone markers bearing "UNESCO" and the WHC logo. And by doing this, Wat Athvea and Phnom Krom can no longer be visited without having the Angkor Pass. Wat Preah En Kosei, however, is still free to enter -- until when, we cannot tell. Ta Prohm restoration is finished while Bayon and West Mebon are ongoing (its hard to imagine that the East Mebon used to be a floating temple too!), the Jayataka Baray surrounding Neak Pean had been re-flooded during the pandemic (which eventually rotted many trees, but beautifully repopulated with lotuses), the island in Sra Srang has been restored, and all the paths connecting the temples are now cemented. Some have even been diverted. Another realization is that it is nice to witness sunset on the bridge at the Southern Gate of Angkor Thom, a decent alternative to crowded Phnom Bakheng. 

Photo: Wat Preah En Kosei (one of the only five private temples standing, the best example is of course Banteay Srei; another is Prasat Kravan), Phnom Krom (one of the earliest, along with other temples on top of mountains, e.g. Preah Vihear temple, Phnom Bakheng, Phnom Chisor, Vat Phou) and its misleading marker, and Wat Athvea and its adjoining active monastery.