Phu Phra Bat (PPB) is an exemplary multi-layered cultural landscape set on a plateau rising up to 150 meters above the floor plain, and would make a great addition to the World Heritage list. What looks like well-formed dolmens at first sight are in fact magnificent works of nature through weathering. While it is in Udon Thani ---and together with Ban Chiang they form a good argument for the claim that the province sheltered the earliest civilization in Thailand--- we figured that it was easier to visit PPB from Nong Khai. Our accommodation, the Rim Riverside Guesthouse, offered to take us there for 1,000Bt, which was a very good deal. The owner, an avid cyclist, even said it is possible to get to PPB on a bike and that he had already done it a couple of times. What surprised me was the extent of the site and the number of interesting rock formations in place. I recall wanting to go here in 2013 and when I searched the internet, one practically only sees images of the iconic rock tower Hor Nang U-Sa and very little of everything else. Even the latest editions of some guidebooks do not even "highlight" it, perhaps due to its remoteness. So, my friend and I felt we saw more than what we expected. 

Despite the instruction of the ticket man not to visit Wat Louk Koei (largest chambered rock temple in the park with well-preserved statues), we still took the 500m trek to the temple, only to find out that there was an excavation project taking place. We did not feel so bad about our 'intrusion' as those who were digging did not seem bothered by our presence.    

Around Wat Louk Koei are sema stones (stone markers from the Dvaravati to Khmer periods demarcating Buddhist sacred grounds), which are also present around Hor Nang U-Sa, Kou Nang U-Sa (the "Thai Stonehenge" and one of my favorites due to its association to supposed legendary weaver -- I collect textiles), and the Kork Mah Noi (the last rock site if you follow the 2-hour circuit, and probably the most impressive for its almost impossible balancing feat).

Six rock shelters house pre-historic rock paintings of varying conditions. Tham Chang, Wat Pota, Heep Sob Porta, and the unlabeled rock formation beside Bor Num Nang U-Sa (an ancient stone well) have traces of red paintings. The most impressive of which are in Tham Wua and Tham Khon which sport human and bovine images, respectively, in relatively good condition. The last two are also close to Kork Mah Noi, making that section of the park the most memorable for us. If you are not a fan of trekking, there is a short cut to this section by taking the left turn before the ticket inspector's station early on.

There were a few local visitors who came in after us (we were the first ones to get in at 9:30am), but as soon as they have seen and taken photos of the central cluster were the main rock tower is, they turn around and leave. Hence, my friend and I had the pleasure of having some of the more interesting rock formations lying deeper in the park to ourselves. Despite the notorious Thailand heat (worse than the Philippines, btw), we still enjoyed the trek and even went up to Pha Sadet View Point. I equally find it charming that the rock formations have been named after characters of a certain folklore as this only fortifies the significance that the local people still attach to the site. Offerings can still be seen, so it is still an active religious space.

I must admit that there are not so many SE Asian cultural sites currently sitting in the T-list that excite me as much as Phu Phra Bat does, and I hope that it will get inscribed soon after sitting in the T-list for a long time now.