First published: 09/03/23.

Carlo Sarion 4.0

Brasilia

Brasilia (Inscribed)

Brasilia by Carlo Sarion

I have always associated modernist architecture with minimalism and utility, but also with grittiness and to some extent, urban decay. It did not help that modernist architecture originated brutalism, which is another architectural style that I did not appreciate until recently. Visiting Brasilia has changed all of that—this is the place where I finally got to understand and even admire this architectural movement. The previous reviews pretty much said everything about the history, OUV, and logistics of visiting Brasilia, but I thought I'd add another review by sharing my experience visiting the city at the end of September 2022.

I flew from Belo Horizonte to Brasilia and from above, you could really appreciate the distinct shape of the city. Most of the government and cultural buildings of interest are built along Eixo Monumental (the main axis), while residential buildings are located in the wings. The areas adjacent to the axis on both sides are organized into sectors, which are named after the type of establishments they contain (e.g., Setor Comercial, Setor Bancario, and Setor Embaixadas). The city is bounded by Lago Paranoá and Parque Nacional de Brasilia to the east and northwest, respectively. Additionally, the international airport is situated in the south wing. 

The first day was spent roaming around:

  1. Museu Nacional da República – shaped like a spaceship or the planet Saturn cut in half. Exhibits local contemporary and edgy art.
  2. Catedral Metropolitana – arguably the most iconic modern religious structure in Brazil just by its shape, to think that Niemeyer’s original sketch of the cathedral looks like a kid's doodle. The stained glass, sculptures of the angels and evangelists, and bell towers are the highlights of this structure.
  3. Biblioteca Nacional de Brasilia – I like how the library is boxy and rectangular, a complete contrast to the buildings next to it.  

I focused my second day visiting the government offices around the Praça dos Três Poderes and the Esplanada dos Ministerios, which overall is a huge area to walk around. I doubt that the interiors of the government buildings can be visited at the moment following the Brazilian Congress attack and protests in January 2023. I will keep my eye on succeeding reviews for updates.

  1. Palácio do Planalto – the stilt-like columns and neat horizontal lines make this building a thing of beauty.
  2. Supremo Tribunal Federal – located on the other side of the plaza, opposite the Palácio do Planalto.
  3. Palácio do Itamaraty – home of the Foreign Affairs Ministry. The arches and reflecting pools define this building. The interior may be visited by booking a tour through visita@itamaraty.gov.br, although I did not get any response and they seemed to prioritize groups over individuals. 
  4. Palácio da Justiça – kinda resembles Palácio do Itamaraty but with water cascading down from the massive gutters that jut out of the façade.
  5. Congreso Nacional – a funny futuristic ensemble of two bowls (one is upside-down) and two tall wafers. My absolute favorite! 

After a rather exhausting day, I spent the night watching a little samba performance at the hostel (it was the owner’s birthday) while enjoying a big bowl of açai. I then spent the final day relaxing and roaming around the area of my hostel, although I was told to be extra cautious as my visit was at the height of the 2022 Brazilian general election campaign. All I could remember, however, was that the central bus station was chock-full of passengers, vendors, and supporters of various candidates who brought their own marching bands to accompany the merriment.

Brasilia is indeed an impressive, uniquely designed city, and I agree with Wojciech that Niemeyer, Costa, Marx, and friends must have had a field day in planning and developing the city. However, I did not like that the city is not really pedestrian-friendly, although I understand that construction focused on the use of cars and thus, roads were built to scale. Unfortunately, I was not able to check some of the other sights, such as the Palácio da Alvorada, Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil, the TV tower, and some residential buildings. I guess these are another reason to come back to Brasilia.

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