My visit to Delhi in Dec 2023 was part of my mission of retracing my steps back in 2013, when I first travelled to India and missed visiting Humayun's Tomb and Qutb Minar. That was the time when I didn't care much about UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and my travel companion had a set itinerary I didn't want to deviate from. This time, I made sure that I would visit these sites.

The inscribed property refers to a complex comprising one main tomb (Humayun's tomb itself) and several other smaller tombs. Note that this complex of tombs is just one of the many tombs that are scattered across Nizamuddin neighbourhood and the greater Delhi. As a friend would call it, Delhi is both a metropolis and a massive graveyard.

1. Humayun's Tomb

We arrived at the ticket office around 2 pm, which was about the same time the school kids were finishing their visit to the tomb. We went straight to the Western Gate, passing both Bu Halima's Tomb and Garden and Isa Khan's Tomb and Mosque on the way to the main tomb. After taking a photo of the UNESCO plaque, we passed through the Western Gate and walked towards Humayun's tomb. The mausoleum sits on top of a high platform, giving the already prominent mausoleum a more "superior" status over the entire complex. We climbed the stairs and explored the mausoleum. We saw people "testing" the acoustics of the mausoleum walls, while others were busy taking their perfect Instagram photos. We then went to the eastern side of the mausoleum, sat on a bench under the shade, and admired the entire structure.

I see the symmetry, geometry, and lines within the mausoleum as indicative of the intricate architectural and decorative features of the building. The buildings in the complex represent one of the early examples of Mughal architecture, which may also serve as a good benchmark to see the differences in and perhaps the evolution of Mughal architecture over time, particularly when compared with Taj Mahal, Fatehpur Sikri, and the forts in Lahore, Agra, and Delhi. I also agree with the previous reviews: this site is a perfect place to find some respite from the overwhelming chaos just outside of the gate. The peace is punctuated by the noise from the nearby Hazrat Nizamuddin train station, however. Additionally, the gardens are well-maintained as evidenced by the number of workers tending to the plants amidst the crowd of tourists.

2. Barber's tomb

The bench where we sat and rested was right in front of the Barber's Tomb, a cute mausoleum made of grey and red sandstone. The faded hues of the building made it look unkempt compared to the main tomb, though I like how the blue colour of the chhatri domes breaks the monotony of dominant grey and red. Contrary to what the name of this tomb suggests, the identity of the person interred here remains unknown.

3. Isa Khan's tomb and mosque

After hanging around the main tomb for about 45 minutes, we decided to head back to the Western Gate. We were quite ready to leave the site and didn't even think of checking out Isa Khan's tomb and mosque. Thankfully, my partner insisted on entering the enclosure and boy was I happy we did. If it is details and colours that you are looking for, Isa Khan's tomb would offer you just that, though the architecture of the structure is said to be more of Lodhi style than purely Mughal. The colours of the domes of the canopies and the highly ornamented ceilings are noteworthy. There were several cenotaphs inside the tomb, which were illuminated by the sunlight that came through the lattice screens. Don't forget to check the small mosque on the western side of the tomb. 

I'd also like to note that in 2016, the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) and other involved agencies put forward a minor boundary modification to include some tombs within the adjacent Sunder Nursery, such as Sundarwala Mahal, Sundarwala Burj, and Lakkarwala Burj. Sunder Nursery was being restored at the time of inclusion as part of the wider Nizamuddin Urban Renewal Initiative. The "heritage park" finally opened in February 2018. While I did not go to Sunder Nursery to check the other tombs, I am certain that it is worth a visit. In this case, it is best to allot about 3 hours to visit this site, both to unwind in the gardens surrounding the main tomb and to check the smaller tombs in Sunder Nursery.