This complex of mosques, tombs, towers, and other structures was the first site we visited on my “revenge” trip to India in Dec 2023, having missed this back in Dec 2013. The site is located in the Mehrauli neighbourhood in southern Delhi and is adjacent to the Mehrauli Archaeological Park. This site is a pretty solid testament to early Islamic art in India and it deserves to be a part of everyone’s itinerary in Delhi.

We went mid-morning, hoping that the smog would be gone by that time. The ticket booth, shops, food stalls, and toilets are located across the site’s main entrance. We paid INR 500 for the entrance ticket (as foreign travellers) and went straight in to avoid the influx of visitors, which were mostly students. We visited all the main structures within the complex.

1. Qutb Minar

Qutb Minar is located at the southern end of the complex. As its name suggests, this "victory tower" seemed to have served more as a showpiece than an actual minaret where the muezzin called for prayers. It is an imposing structure made up of several stories of sandstone. Taking a closer look at the column you would see combinations of intricate Islamic geometric designs and Indian floral patterns that were reflective of the artistry at the time. It's great to see how rulers and governments have preserved this tower, given that Delhi also experiences a fair share of seismic activity. I'd call this tower the luckier twin of the Minaret of Jam, which was constructed around the same time.

On the opposite side of Qutb Minar and past the Quwwatu'l-Islam mosque is Alai Minar. Only a single storey was constructed, and it would've been much more massive than Qutb Minar had it been completed.

2. Quwwatu’l-Islam Mosque

The mosque that Qutb Minar serves as a minaret for, Quwwatu’l-Islam Mosque is considered the first mosque built in Delhi after the Islamic conquest of the city. The mosque must have been pretty impressive during its heyday. The cloister columns of the mosque were built using stones from demolished Hindu and Jain temples that previously stood on the site. You'd understand right away the Hindu and Jain origin of the stones because of the carvings. What a way to announce the establishment of the power of the new rulers of Delhi, though I also thought this was a smart, efficient, and economic use of available resources. This website says that the local craftsmen who built the mosque plastered the columns to cover the carvings, but the plaster has fallen away over centuries.

The iron pillar at the centre of the mosque is another highlight. It is beautifully framed by the pointed arches of the remaining part of the mosque's wall behind it. The pillar is thought to predate the mosque and the complex itself, and architects, metallurgists, and archaeologists wonder why it has evaded rusting since 1,500 years ago.

3. Tombs and other structures

In addition to Qutb Minar and the mosque, the tombs of Imam Zamin, Alauddin Khalji, and Iltutmish are also found in the complex. The tomb of Iltutmish is noteworthy, particularly because of the detailed carvings of the mihrab on the inner wall of the building. The building that housed Alauddin Khalji's tomb also served as a learning centre (madrasa). Alai Darwaza is another structure found inside the complex and stands beside Qutb Minar. It was said to be the gateway of Quwwatu’l-Islam mosque, and the entrance arch is beautiful and gives off a serene atmosphere when viewed from the inside. Note the elaborate carvings on the inner walls of Alai Darwaza. The top portions of Alai Darwaza and the tomb of Imam Zamin are in the foreground of the photo above, in front of Qutb Minar.

We stayed on the site for about one and a half hours. It was getting warmer so we decided to go back to the car and head for lunch. While hiring a guide is a convenient option, I don't think it is necessary given that the site is small, manageable, and quite peaceful. You just need a good map to explore this site.