One of our day trips from Cusco was spent visiting Valle Sur, located southeast of Cusco, with the intent of hopping between churches and archaeological sites. Said churches belong to the proposed "Rural Temples of Cusco", a group of 10 churches that are said to be the tangible representation of the Christianisation of indigenous peoples of Cusco. Authorities creatively took advantage of the artistic and touristic value of 3 of the 10 "rural temples" that they marketed them to tourists as part of the Ruta Barroco Andino. Many Cusco-based tour companies offer guided full or half-day trips to Valle Sur but we chose to hire our own car and driver so we could customize the sequence of our visit and avoid crowds, as we were visiting during the peak season (Aug 2022).

We left the hotel in Cusco after a hearty breakfast and a couple of soroche pills (Cusco is higher but I was still having symptoms of altitude sickness). How I planned the itinerary was to start at the farthest site and visit the succeeding sites on our way back to the city. Thus, we visited the sites in the following order:

1. Capilla Virgen Purificada de Caninunca in Huaro (see photo):

this dusty, stocky, terracotta-roofed chapel that is located next to a lake (Laguna de Urcos) was locked when we arrived at around 9:30am. Our driver chatted with a vendor who happened to know the caretakers. After a bit of waiting a couple of ladies opened the chapel and issued us our Ruta Barroco Andino tickets. I remember paying 15 soles for each ticket, which allowed travellers to enter the 3 Valle Sur churches. Upon entering we quickly noticed that the walls are painted from ceiling to floor with murals of what seemed to be textile motifs and local vegetation. The golden reredo dominate the altar, which was fronted by rather modest pews. Additionally, we noticed that sculptures were absent (unless we missed a few), although we thought that the paintings already compensated for this.

2. San Juan Bautista de Huaro:

By car, this church was just a couple of minutes away from the first. Many features contrast Huaro from Caninunca, such as (1) the bell-gable that sits on the left side of the façade; (2) the bold and graphic mural paintings featuring Biblical scenes; (3) the numerous sculptures housed in reredos located in the altar and sidewalls; and (4) the woody and ochre hues that dominate the walls of the church. The church also has a cobbled public space in front of its entrance.

3. San Pedro Apostol de Andahuaylillas:

The last and relatively more ornate of the churches we visited. The bold colours and patterns on the coffered ceiling, the fine drawings in the murals and framed paintings, the ornate gilded carvings on the walls, and the tall golden altarpiece just make this church visually stunning. There was a mass celebration at the time of our visit, so we had to wait until the mass ended and the crowd dissipated. 

Note that photography of the interiors of all the churches we visited was prohibited at the time of our visit. Additionally, the Ruta Barroco Andino comprises the 3 churches we visited and the Iglesia de Compania de Jesus, located in Cusco. 

After having a snack in front of San Pedro Apostol church, we drove back to Cusco, stopping at the archaeological sites of Pikillaqta (Wari culture) and Tipon (pre-Incan and Incan) along the way. I definitely recommend including these sites in any Valle Sur itinerary, if time allows.

I thought that the three churches we visited adequately embodied the history and aesthetic value that this serial proposal presents in its OUV. Thus, I can say that this site has a strong potential for inscription, especially once the State Party guarantees its protection and communicates its management plans. Besides, I see that a comparable property in Bolivia (the Jesuit Missions of the Chiquitos) set a precedent and is a good example for justifying its inscription.