Tongariro National Park boasts a couple of records. First, it is the first national park in New Zealand and one of the oldest national parks in the world. Second, it is the first to be inscribed (in 1993) under the revised criteria that describe cultural landscapes and their intangible cultural values. There's nothing much to say about the OUV of this site: it is breathtakingly beautiful (criterion VII), geologically active (criterion VIII), and culturally significant to tangata whenua (Māori) (criterion VI). It's also great to note that its 2020 conservation outlook is rated “good”.

And so I'd focus my review on a few things. I have so far visited this site on two separate occasions--one that involved a lot of rain and panic attacks from driving on the left side of the road (Dec 2020), and an overall great visit with heaps of sun and blue skies (Mar 2024).

1. But where are the cultural monuments?

As mentioned, Tongariro National Park is one of those mixed sites whose inscription is based on the intangible cultural association of its natural sites. The local iwi (Māori tribes) of Ngati Tuwharetoa and Ngati Rangi consider the volcanoes in the area (Tongariro, Ruapehu, and Ngauruhoe) sacred spiritual and cultural entities. A tuku (an act of shared custodianship with the New Zealand government) made in 1887 enabled its eventual establishment as a national park in 1894. This shows that the establishment of the national park itself manifests its deep association with Māori culture.

2. Where can I stay?

While you can stay in any small town surrounding the national park, you may like to base yourself in the following:

• Whakapapa Village - this is where I stayed during both visits, and I believe it is the only village that is well within the National Park. Arriving here is a treat to the eyes, as you would see the pretty Chateau Tongariro with a view of Mt Ngauruhoe (aka Mount Doom) to the left. Unfortunately, the hotel was closed down in early 2023 due to seismic risks. Pros: its obvious location within the national park, the views of Mt Ruapehu and Mt Ngauruhoe, easy access to the trailheads of many walks, and the Tongariro National Park visitor centre is located here.
  Cons: limited accommodation (only 2 remained when I visited in Mar 2024), no independent restaurants, no dairies or convenience stores.
• National Park Village - this is located along State Highway 4 at the western boundary of the national park. I was told that foreigners who work in the hotels of Whakapapa village (on working holiday visas) stay here (not that is relevant).
  Pros: near Whakapapa village, more lodgings, has a petrol station with a convenience store, and the National Park train station is located here.
  Cons: you need to drive to Whakapapa village to get to the trailheads.
• Ohakune town - this town gives off ski resort vibes reminiscent of Banff town, though this place is flat and has no imposing mountains around. It is located on the southwestern edge of the national park, accessible via State Highway 49.
  Pros: it’s got everything a tourist needs: more choices of accommodation, restaurants, cafes, supplies shops, and grocery stores. It is also a convenient base for many trailheads in the southern part of the National Park, though it would involve a beautiful drive through Okahune Mountain Road. The terminus of this road takes you on the slopes of Mt Ruapehu. During my visit in Mar 2024, the road was closed past Mangawhero Falls, most likely because of the thick fog.
  Cons: none, really, but it won’t beat Whakapapa for the location.

3. How to get there and around?

There are different ways to get to and around the National Park:

• Car - this is the most convenient option. Hiring cars can be expensive, especially during the peak season (summer and school holidays), but we all know the flexibility that cars give you, especially when going to the trailheads. From Auckland (in Dec 2020), it took me around 5.50 hours to get to Whakapapa village, while from Wellington (in Mar 2024), it took us 6.5 hours due to heavy traffic in Otaki and a lunch stop at Levin. Normally, it would take 4.5 to 5 hours to drive (without stops) to the National Park from both cities.
• Train -  if you are coming from Auckland or Wellington, the Northern Explorer Train could be your choice. It stops at the National Park and Ohakune train stations, but the services are quite infrequent (3 times a week). It is a slow-moving train, but that makes sense since its main selling point is the ability to view the landscape leisurely. Once you get to the stations, you still need to find a way to get around.
• Bus and shuttles - at the time of writing this review, InterCity buses stop at the National Park village and Ohakune from Auckland or Wellington. Some shuttle companies offer quick transfers to the ski areas. You would also need to book a shuttle when you tramp the Tongariro Alpine Crossing.

4. Walks 

What I love about Tongariro National Park is that it has trails for pretty much everyone: from an easy 15-minute wheelchair-accessible walk to the multi-day Tongariro Northern Circuit. I reckon the Department of Conservation is doing a great job taking care of the entire National Park and providing trampers with well-maintained trails and an online guide that summarises all the walks. I have not done the full-day Tongariro Alpine Crossing and the Tongariro Northern Circuit (a Great Walk) in the National Park, however. It was raining heavily on my first visit and I was travelling with someone with a gout on the second. But that's fine, as that would be a great excuse to visit the National Park again. :D

Anyway, here is a rundown of the walks from and around Whakapapa Village and Ohakune that I've done so far. My ratings are of course subjective, based primarily on my physical capacity and the weather at the time of visits.

From Whakapapa Village

• Whakapapa Nature Walk - SUPER EASY - ~15 minutes return - a sealed loop that is also wheelchair-accessible. This is a cool walk that people may want to try first. It introduces you to the native flora of the National Park, and it's got happy chirping birds to boot.
• Tawhai Falls Track - SUPER EASY - ~20 minutes return - This is an easy walk that culminates at the murky brown Tawhai Falls (aka Gollum's Pool).
• Ridge Track/Walk - EASY - ~35 to 40 minutes return - A leisurely walk involving a gradual ascent to the top of a small hill (more like a mound). The first half of the trail is covered under the canopy of beech forest, which eventually emerges into alpine shrubland. You’d see Chateau Tongariro and Whakapapa village once you reach the higher shrubland.
• Silica Rapids Walk - EASY - 1 hr and 15 minutes to 2 hours return - the trailhead was the one past the visitor centre along Bruce Road. This trail also allows you to get to the Whakapapaiti Hut. This is an overall enjoyable walk that takes you to Silica Rapids itself, a stream that forms a series of terraces covered in creamy white mineral deposits. Weirdly, it took us about 2 hours to walk this track for some reason (not because we were pausing a lot).
• Taranaki Falls Track - EASY - ~2 hours return - This is an easy loop track that takes you to Taranaki Falls and starts and ends at Whakapapa village. I took the counter-clockwise route of this track on both visits, only because the clockwise route would involve climbing up a flight of about 100 steps at the Falls. You'll see when you get there. What I like about this track is that you'd have a great view of Mt Ngauruhoe at the part of the track near the village (see photo). The falls itself is not too impressive, but surely one of the better ones you'd see in the National Park.
• Tama Lakes - INTERMEDIATE - the online guide says 5-6 hours return, but it took me a full 7 hours because of photo stops. This trail is an extension of the Taranaki Falls Track, so if you've got an entire day, continue walking as the views here are amazing! The track goes through fields of dry brown tussock as you ascend towards Lower Tama Lake. Viewing this lake southwards is very picturesque as you'd have Mt Ruapehu in the background! The track then steeply ascends towards the Upper Tama Lake, which this time, would give you a closer view of Mt Ngauruhoe. Just be prepared as you'd all be exposed to the elements and the wind could be ferocious. If Mt Ngauruhoe turns into Mt Doom real quick while you are up there...well, good luck!

From Ohakune

• Mangawhero Falls Walk - SUPER EASY - 5 minutes - you park, you get out of the car, you walk for a few minutes, and baaam, you're there, looking at the pretty Mangawhero Falls.
• Mangawhero Forest Walk - EASY - 1 to 1 hour and 30-minute walk return, depending on your level of enthusiasm towards New Zealand's native flora! I love mosses, lichens, and mushrooms, so I really enjoyed this walk. You'd think this is near the Mangawhero Falls Walk, but it is actually down the Ohakune Mountain Road, just before the town centre of Ohakune.
• Waitonga Falls Walk - EASY - 1 hour and 30 minutes - I like this one because of the imposing falls and the alpine bog with burnt brown tussock fields and small ponds that reflect Mt Ruapehu on a calm sunny day. The trail ends at a "platform" above the stream where you can view the falls. We saw a couple of guys walking along the stream to get closer to the falls. We were pretty much contended viewing the falls from the platform.

I will definitely update this list once I get to visit the National Park again, and hopefully, it'll include a quick review of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing.