
I visited this mixed WHS in September 2024 covering Ur, Uruk (Warka) and the Ahwar Marshes. Like most of Iraq's archaeological sites, the wealth of artefacts found is much more than what is left to see in situ. However, this is perhaps the best group of archaeological sites in terms of authenticity and what's left to see. This applies much more to Uruk than to Ur, although the iconic reconstructed Ziggurat of Ur is a worthy sight.
In Uruk, you literally feel you are trespassing in an archaeological dig, stepping on countless fragments of pottery, cuneiform mud bricks, glazed tiles and conical mosaics. The best time to visit is just before sunset, not only because it is burning hot here earlier, but mostly because all the building remains with glazed tiles and statues (mostly taken to the British Museum and to the Pergamon Museum in Berlin) light up in the afternoon sun. Among the best examples to be explored with a high-clearance car and a generous tip to the caretaker are the Inanna Temple, the Temple of Gareus, and the remains of a ziggurat. Uruk played a leading role in the early urbanization of Sumer in the mid-4th millennium BC, is nicknamed as the birthplace of writing, and possibly gave its name to modern Iraq. It is located east of the current bed of the Euphrates River, on an ancient, now-dried channel of the river. A whole room of artefacts (not to be missed!) has been dedicated to some of the best Sumer finds at the National Museum of Baghdad.
In Ur, the most important monument is certainly the partially restored Ziggurat of Ur. There are also some minor mud brick buildings with a narrow arch, some sealed with bitumen mortar, circular groups of bricks on the floor, and the royal tombs excavation site which led to the discovery of the famous Standard of Ur, several clay sealings, cuneiform tablets and a golden Sumerian headgear and necklaces believed to be of Puabi (on display at the National Museum of Baghdad together with the splendid golden lyres). A bit further from the Ziggurat of Ur are also the remains believed to be those of "Abraham's House" as well as a helipad built for the late Pope Francis' visit, which definitely help to pave the way to the gradual reopening of the Federal Republic of Iraq to tourists beyond Iraqi Kurdistan.
Further South towards Basra lie the Ahwar marshes, home to the Marsh Arabs and abundant birdlife. The welcome breeze on board the narrow motorised boat made the whole boat trip very pleasant, as we startled blond-haired water buffaloes, several stilts, kingfishers, herons and other water birds, and watched the local fishermen drawing or casting their nets, or cooling down in the muddy waters. We ate some delicious fish in one of the few reed houses while we were entertained with some folkloristic Marsh Arab chants.
All in all, I really enjoyed this WHS and I felt it is probably Iraq's best and most authentic WHS.
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