First published: 09/02/21.

Clyde 3.0

Bat, Al-Khutm And Al-Ayn

Bat, Al-Khutm and Al-Ayn (Inscribed)

Bat, Al-Khutm and Al-Ayn by Clyde

I visited this WHS in December 2020 after having visited Bahla Fort. Prior to visiting Oman I allowed quite a lot of time to prepare well how to access the different locations that make up this WHS. Maps.me is still the best option as there are still different locations erroneously marked with the same name on Google maps and road signs are non-existent (which I find quite strange as even the tentative sites I've visited were clearly marked).

The best time to visit is in the late afternoon but I would allow much more time to actually get to the first location and then to reach the next ones before it gets too dark. Keep in mind that the sites' magnificent mountain scenery in itself means that the sun will set behind the opposite mountains much earlier than the usual sunset time. Also, each location needs at best a short hike on loose rocks and desert terrain.

The first location I visited was Al Ayn (marked on Google maps as Al Ayn's Beehive Tombs) and chose the shorter Amlah-Wadi Al Ayn fully paved route off the highway 21 (just mind the few speed bumps which are nowhere as high as Mexico's topes but still Omani drivers tend to slow down to an almost dead stop upon approaching each one!). Just after passing by Amlah and Al Ayn, on your left hand side you'll be able to spot the long line of tombs on the nearest hill. I'd recommend parking near the small mosque on the right hand side of the road. From here you'll find a narrow trail which passes through a small patch of agricultural land and leads to a water-runoff crossing (from Jebel Shams) which seems like a river bed (I wouldn't visit just after spells of heavy rain!) and then shortly uphill to the tombs. The only sign you'll see is a brown sign mentioning that this is an archaeological site of the Sultanate of Oman but no mention of UNESCO. Jebel Misht soars behind the row of 21 tombs (19 still somewhat standing) of Al Ayn. I couldn't resist entering one of the larger tombs for a quick photo from inside (top right photo).

The eroded rock known as chert just beneath the tombs (top left photo) was used to construct these structures often called beehive tombs because of their appearance, which is similar to the traditional bee skeps of western Europe but also tower tombs due to the height of some of the tombs especially near Al Khutm. They are often situated in prominent locations such as the crest of a hill just like those in Al Ayn, and were clearly of importance within the society that created them and were built to impress, and certainly to endure the passage of time. They are dated from the 3rd and 4th millenium BC and each tomb was used over a period of many decades for the burial of dozens of individuals. That said, they might have had other purposes which are still being investigated by archaeologists or might remain unknown. Among the possible uses which have been suggested are: territorial markers (possibly also used as fixed points to calculate the movement of stars in relation the aflaj irrigation system), sites of pilgrimage and points of refuge for inhabitants of nearby settlements. Moreover, the principle of a circular structure with high, unscalable walls might have also inspired the nearby circular towers built in most of the forts around Nizwa.

After Al Ayn, we drove back towards Amlah and headed towards the paved road of Amlah-Ad Dreez in the direction of Ibri (with many speed bumps) to reach the remains of tombs, major towers and settlements of Bat after around 45 minutes. Only the last few metres are unpaved and very dusty but doable by non-4x4 vehicles. The first site, fenced all around, is one of a number of major towers within the site of Bat known as Qasr A'Rojoom, a niched structure constructed from monolithic blocks of stone and housing 13 small chambers and a well at the tower's centre. If for whatever reason you decide to use Google Maps, the location of this site is called City Pat Archaeological. Opposite this structure, you'll be able to spot the remains of several tombs beneath and on the slopes of the nearby hills. Even though the site is fenced off, it seemed as if the fences were there to prevent anyone from offroading without being aware that there is an archaeological site. Guided trips on 4x4 vehicles are possible too but might require booking well in advance. When I visited there were other locals visiting and on foot and it was easy to spot the narrow gaps which allow pedestrians to go through. I walked closer to the nearest hill with several tombs with varying levels of white limestone left on the tombs (bottom photos of two of the larger ones). I had to climb to the top of the hill to get a better look at the most complete tomb which is very similar to the one with the oryx embossed engravings in the Al Ain WHS of the United Arab Emirates.

After that, I drove further on towards the area marked as Bat Necropolis and Beehive Tombs on Google Maps where I could see more examples of these tombs. Here the site is completely fenced off except for a clear opening just behind the SAOC Primary Substation Antenna. I also looked out for a peculiar white limestone slab with an embossed engraving of a man and a woman which I had seen online from the City Pat Archaeological 2017 photos on Google Maps. This was either removed from the site as it was a mere modern engraving or else it was taken to a museum as it was nowhere to be found when I visited. Most probably the former is true as there is no mention of it on the UNESCO dossiers or anywhere else online. This would be plausible also in light of a similar experience I had at the tentative WHS of Salut which I'll mention in my separate review.

Unfortunately it quickly got dark by the time I spotted the offroad trail in the distance which leads to the higher lone tower tomb of Al Khutm (close to the date oasis and adjacent village of Al Wahrah) and so regretfully I had to head back to my car as I had no torch with me to find my way back. Even though information boards and possibly a visitor centre housing the remains still being excavated here will be surely added here in the not so distant future, with some prior preparation you'll still be able to appreciate these sites which I find possess OUV if only for the sheer amount of tombs and remains, the most iconic of which being those of Al Ayn. And for the time being, it's very likely that you'll have the place for yourself!

 

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