I visited Berat and Gjirokastra in Spring 2022 staying a couple of nights in each. At the time of my visit both towns road infrastructures were undergoing major renovations which should be addressing the major problems related to sanitation and electricity systems of both towns in the near future. Apart from the dusty welcome, both towns were truly the highlight WHS in Albania and both complemented each other and were worthwhile visits.

Especially Berat is perhaps a bit comparable with Safranbolu, Turkey and Ohrid, North Macedonia with an excellent setting surrounded by mountains and hills, including the Tomorr national park on the east, and the river Osum. The 15th century historic centre of Berat can be divided in three: the Castle (Kala) quarter, the Mangalem quarter (with the Islamic centre known as "the City of a 1,000 windows") and the Gorica quarter. The latter lies opposite the Mangalem quarter and is reachable through the "modern" pedestrian bridge or the old seven-arched Gorica Bridge. Rather than for the Ottoman qualities of this WHS, the highlights of this quarter are the 19th century Church of Saint Spiridon and the 19th century Church of Saint Thomas and the remains of the fortifications of Gorica.

The Mangalem quarter is the heart of Berat with its very narrow streets and its four highlights are the former palace of the Pasha, the 14th century Church of Saint Michael, the Islamic Center and above all the 19th century Bachelors Mosque with its exterior and interior frecoes, a bit similar to the old mosque in Skanderbeg Square, Tirana. As a stopover along the strenuous uphill hike up to the Castle quarter, I enjoyed taking in the vernacular dwelling houses which are quite similar to the ones in Gjirokastra (although not as beautiful). The fortified citadel walls enclose several monuments and remains. The highlights here were the excellent views over the Gorica and Mangalem quarters below, the Onufri Museum in the Cathedral of the Assumption of St Mary, the Red Mosque (minaret), and the excellent mountain views from the Church of the Holy Trinity. The setting of the Kala quarter reminded me a bit of the setting at the Mystras WHS in Greece. There is a UNESCO WHS plaque just opposite the Bachelors Mosque.

The Gjirokastra WHS component offers a unique pattern of Ottoman architecture and panoramic views of the dramatic Drino valley and the still snow-capped peaks of Mt Lunxheri. Overall, Gjirokastra seems to have suffered much more from a recent urban sprawl with modern buildings than Berat, so the historic centre is more of a patchwork of top-notch vernacular houses and important traces here and there of Ottoman architecture. The castle visit wasn't as fulfilling (in terms of the WHS' OUV) as that of Berat although the artillery collection was really impressive. The Old Bazaar quarter seems to be the most intact with its unique limestone masonry. The definite highlight of Gjirokastra for me were the impressive visits of the Skenduli House and the Zekate House. They truly are an outstanding example of the local architecture of the city, with authentic elements inside and out such as the beautiful Skeduli house chimney and the top floor rooms of the Zekate House.

If you have more time on your hand, a visit to the Mecite quarter and hammam can be rewarding too although rougher than the other quarters with glass lizards, stray dogs, litter and some shady areas while looking for the Hadji Murat ruined mosque and the 7 fountains scattered around this historic quarter. A bit like Safranbolu, Turkey too, nearby Gjirokastra lies the worthwhile Ali Pasha bridge/aqueduct. The UNESCO WHS plaque of Gjirokastra can be found at the start of the main street just after the Greek consulate.