I visited the Polish side of this WHS in August 2020. Knowing that August isn't the best month for birdwatching, my main goal was to visit the Strict Forest Reserve and if possible see European bison, the largest land mammal in Europe, if not in the wild at least in the Show Reserve (together with wolves, boars, lynxes, hybrid bisons, moose, tarpan horses).

To visit the Strict Forest Reserve I followed Els's suggestion and specifically asked for Arek to be my guide and he surely didn't disappoint. Perhaps due to the season or due to the lack of tourists, I was charged 60 euros for the circa 3.5 hrs guided private tour of the Strict Forest Reserve with a slightly later meeting time at around 05:00. Apart from his more than 20 years experience as a local licensed guide, Arek was thrilled that I had previously visited his far away home town and even knew how to pronounce it - Tarnowskie Gory! Apparently he's also a former miner from the recently inscribed Polish WHS. Even though the entrance to the Strict Forest Reserve is always open, but to enter you need to be accompanied by a licensed guide as 'rangers' frequently check tickets and licences!

The Strict Forest Reserve protects forest stands of natural origin and its primeval characteristics. New species are still being discovered here and natural processes are still being investigated in several scientific studies. It is one of four large areas in Poland under strict protection (together with Tatra, Bieszczady and Biebrza). The Bialowieza Forest National Park (BFNP) has been widely acclaimed on the international stage. It became a Biosphere reserve since 1977 and a UNESCO WHS as early as 1979 - the first natural WHS in Europe, and the fourth worldwide with the likes of Yellowstone, Galapagos and Simien. It was inscribed for possessing the highest criteria of nature conservations, namely biodiversity (criterion X) and continuity of natural processes (criterion IX), and in 2014, the WHS was heavily extended.

Shortly after meeting Arek at the side entrance of the Palace Park, some 500 metres away from the Strict Forest Reserve entrance and UNESCO WHS sign (there's also a similar sign at the Palace Park Entrance near the Bialowieza Orthodox Church, a stone marker in front of the museum, and a brown street sign at Haynocka as far as 65km away from Bialowieza!), Arek hurriedly invited me to forget about the numerous fox families in the fields as there was a small herd of European bison just next to the BFNP sign, attracted by the hay stacks placed there to avoid as much as possible that the freely roaming bisons venture too close of residential areas. Interestingly enough, calves and female bisons sometimes feed on this hay but male bisons prefer to feed on what the forest provides. That said, they still 'guard' their herd till they disappear again in the thick forest and follow it making it easier to take photos of the male bisons. It is much easier to spot European bison very early in the morning in the surrounding fields closest to the forest in nearby villages rather than near Bialowieza itself and this is especially true in the winter months. If you're not so lucky, and for better lighting, you can at least see them for a minimal fee at the Show Reserve (zoo).

The value of the BFNP lies in the forest being shaped by natural processes, relying mainly on the undisturbed presence of many dead trees, on which plants, ferns, mosses, liverworts, seedlings, other trees, mammals, birds, fungi and many predators thrive. Although you're likely to spot white-backed woodpeckers, three-toed woodpeckers and black woodpeckers as the national park particularly enjoys woodpecker abundance, Spring is the best time to see them out of their tree-holes which Arek knows by heart. August seems to be a great time to spot a rich variety of fungi. Of all the fungi Arek showed me, the ones I'll definitely remember are the large Umbrella/Parasol fungi (Macrolepiota procera) and the morbidly but aptly named Dead Man's Fingers fungi (Xylaria polymorpha). Another unique aspect I particularly enjoyed viewing was what's left of the wild beekeeping in hollow trees from the 18th and 19th centuries.

I must say that Arek really makes the tour interesting even if at times you might get a bit bored if you're not too much into trees. Do not forget mosquito repellent and sturdy hiking shoes even though the last bit was on a wooden boardwalk. Most of the mammals we saw were mostly spotted along the treeless open pathways (deer, fox, red squirrels, shrews) although Arek will also show you several old marks left by lynx and wolves. It was very interesting to see how woodpeckers affix pine cones to tree barks high above ground to be able to feed without being attacked by predators. Another interesting fact is that most birds such as wrens, robins, woodpeckers, etc. prefer to nest very close to the footpaths as human beings are less of a threat to them than other predators which live in the forest.

The half centimeter long spruce bark beetles can kill a mature tree especially spruces. This was initially used an excuse for logging but at least until now nature is left alone to take its course. On the other hand, some of the ecosystems represented in the BFNP such as wet meadows, wetlands, river corridors, etc. require maintenance through seasonal active management, due to the decrease of water flow and the absence of agriculture (hay cutting).

The 50 hectare Palace Park is also interesting to visit and it evolved from a private 19th century Tsar's hunting residence. The Tsar's Palace did not survive until present days, however there are several associated buildings left. The Nature and Forest Museum is also worth a quick visit for its excellent collection of insects and fungi. The Breeding Centre is strictly out of bounds and is the fenced area with a big stone bison statue just before reaching Bialowieza.

If you opt to do your own thing, there are 3 free hiking trails in the northern part of the of the BFNP. The 4.5km Tsar's Trail (Carska Tropina) goes along the former hunting route and there's an observation tower offering a beautiful panorama of the Narewka river valley. The 11.5km Wolf's Trail (Wilczy Szlak) connects the Masiewska clearing with the Kosy Most wilderness. The 5.5km trail around the Capercaille Forest Range (Wokol Uroczysja Gluszec) goes around one of the last refuges of the Capercaille (Tetrao urogallus) in the Bialowieza Forest. The latter trail is especially worth visiting in winter not only for birdwatchers but also for the increased chance of spotting bison. All in all, I really enjoyed my visit to the BFNP and wouldn't mind revisiting in a different season if I happen to be around.