I visited this WHS in December 2021 on a sunny morning. The most iconic building of the Central University City Campus of the National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM) is the central library. Just next to it, on the terrace leading to the Rectory Tower building, is the UNESCO WHS inscription plaque, just opposite the tunnel leading to the stadium. Like other Mexican WHS, there are no information boards to help guide visitors, not even in Spanish, so you need to come prepared on what you want to see and some background information.

The OUV of this WHS lies in the dynamic fusion of Mesoamerican motifs and revolutionary ideals. The UNAM is an independent university founded in 1910 and built over the succeeding decades with contributions from many leading artists and architects. Apart from the main university buildings, there is a sculpture park with monumental earthworks built around lava flows. The university is one huge quadrangle, entered from above with long wide rows of steps leading down, almost mimicking the urban spaces of the Aztecs, with legible propaganda displayed on the university buildings.

The university's designs were influenced by functionalism, which at one time informed anthropology, psychology and the sciences. In a nutshell, it is the theory that all aspects of a society serve a specific function and are necessary for the survival of that society. This holistic regard for the past holds great meaning in a place with such archaeological evidence of pre-Colombian greatness.

Besides the UNESCO WHS metal plaque, education is portrayed as an act of defiance and in itself a revolutionary act, by a striking mural by David Alfaro Siquieros of a giant hand with a pencil which embodies the revolutionary expression also present in Brazilian Modernism, and several dates from 1520 to 19??. The dates represent significant historical dates which match up with Mexican historical events, such as the Spanish conquest of the Aztec empire in 1520 or the defeat of the Spanish troops by insurgent forces in 1810. The Rectory Tower next to this mural is a pretty ordinary high rise building like many others on campus with the exception of a decorated pop-out room about half way up, also decorated with a mural by Siquieros. On the rear side of the tower is another mural with bas-relief by Siquieros.

The most striking building is undoubtedly the Central Library. The mural by Juan O'Gorman, who worked with Gustavo Maria Saavedra and Juan Martinez de Velasco, is a cosmic view which spans the atomic age, European culture, and pre-Colombian history as a continuum, each with equal importance. The north wall depicts the pre-Hispanic past, the south wall depicts the colonial past, the east wall depicts the contemporary world, and the west wall depicts the university and modern Mexico.

The murals are made by thousands of colored tiles brought from all over Mexico. The murals on the south wall of the UNAM Central Library were inspired by the representation of Tlaloc, the god of rain and fertility in the ancient Nahua-Culhua religion, visible in the murals from different viewpoints. Another aspect of functionalism is the emphasis on direct experience and applied fieldwork, as opposed to an educated elite writing second-hand memoirs based on hearsay, working from 19th century ivory towers. In a way, the Aztec motifs are still real and immediate, even though the Aztecs themselves no longer exist as a sovereign nation.

The School of Architecture at UNAM offers undergraduate and postgraduate studies in architecture, landscape architecture, urbanism and industrial design. The red and white building was designed by the architect Jose Villagran, and is situated 180 degrees from the Central Library. It undulates like a cosmic snake and uses brise soleil to control the sun's heat instead of relying on energy-intensive cooling systems. It really reminded me of Le Corbusier's buildings as well as some of the modern buildings of Olivetti in Ivrea, Italy. There is an excellent mural by Jose Chavez Morado surrounded by a small quaint tree-lined garden which should not be missed before heading to the quirky looking concrete laboratory known as the Cosmic Ray Pavilion with yet another moving mural called La Superacion del Hombre Por Medio de la Cultura. Another interesting facade is that of the Chemistry Building with the periodic table on its glass facade.

I really enjoyed my visit at the UNAM and it really is a great half day trip that goes well with the countless murals in Mexico City.