I visited this Iraqi Kurdistan WHS in September 2024. Up till not long ago, visitors arriving in Iraqi Kurdistan could not visit the rest of Federal Iraq but in 2024 this is no longer the case, even though you certainly feel as if you're visiting a different country when visiting from Baghdad. The location of the Erbil citadel, built on top of a high multilayered tell, makes it really pleasant to gaze at its exterior details towards sunrise or sunset. In the morning, you'll see all types of vendors setting up their wares, while towards sunset the whole modern square with fountains gets very lively with traditional coffee sellers in full costume roaming around locals, expats and tourists who gather there.

The citadel's claim to be the "the oldest continuously inhabited settlement in the world" is still true thanks to one family who lives inside the high fortified walls. There are two guarded ramps leading to the citadel (and an eastern ramp which has been closed down) and nobody (except the one family) can enter the citadel before sunrise and after sunset. A central straight road from the northern Ahmadi gate to the southern Grand Gate was made after demolishing some of the houses and most of the illegal houses built beneath the tell have been cleared, leaving a rather ghost-town or museum feeling to the place. Being an Ottoman settlement, it reminded me a bit of Diyarbakir in Turkish Kurdistan although it lacked the monuments found in the latter. There are a few houses, one of them converted into an interpretation centre, a few handicraft museums and a hammam open only for tourists to get a glimpse of the interior, a huge Iraqi Kurdistan flag near the gate, but nothing much else inside the citadel as everyone was relocated the area known as the "New Citadel" to allow for restoration of the crumbling houses and fortifications.

The market/bazaar area below is thought to have been created in the time of Sultan Muzafferddin Kokberi (1190-1233). This period, the only time in its long history when Erbil flourished as an independent city-state, also saw the creation of the minaret recently restored in downtown Erbil, and was also the time when the Muzafferddin madrassahs (schools) were founded. The only religious structure that currently survives in the Erbil Citadel is the Mulla Afandi Mosque which is currently being renovated too.

When it was fully occupied, the citadel was divided in 3 mahallas (districts): from east to west the Serai, the Takya and the Topkhana. The Serai district was occupied by notable families; the Takya district was named after the homes of dervishes; and the Topkhana district housed craftsmen and farmers. Apparently the government plans to have around 50 families live in the citadel once again after it is fully renovated.