First published: 04/03/22.

Clyde 4.0

Guanajuato

Guanajuato (Inscribed)

Guanajuato by Clyde

I visited this WHS in December 2021 and January 2022. I must confess that it was the most pleasant surprise during my Mexico road trip. While Mexico City has already exceeded all my expectations, Guanajuato was really mind-boggling in every aspect: first of all its underground labyrinth of roads, intersections, stairs, etc. on different levels, its coherence and top-notch ensemble of historic sites, its university, its mines, and its fun yet also romantic nightlife in a way (it reminded me a lot of Coimbra, Portugal) - Guanajuato is a real melting pot of traditions and culture.

Guanajuato is situated in a narrow valley, which makes its streets narrow and winding. Most are alleys that cars cannot pass through, and some are long sets of stairs up the mountainsides. Many of the city's crossroads are partially or fully underground. Some of the bridges also have hanging wooden or stone houses built over them. I think that this feature alone of Guanajuato and how well it has been preserved already possesses enough OUV to justify its inscription on the WH list. It's incredible that still today the river continues to flow under the streets of Guanajuato. I spent hours exploring the different tunnels and in a way studying my way out since I had managed to immediately find my hotel in the very centre without any mistakes (pure luck!).

The "estudiantinas" (student music groups) with traditional "callejoneadas" (alleyway strolls), which we enjoyed almost every night we spent here, transport all participants to a different era, that of serenades and celebrations, while dressed in their capes and attire of the 16th century. They really reminded us of the fado nights experienced in Coimbra, Portugal. Apart from this, practically at every corner, by the squares, throughout the alleys, the unmistakable figure of Don Quixote reminds of the deeds and craziness of the "caballero de la triste figura" (the knight of the sad countenance), so much so that Guanajuato is known as the "Capital Cervantina de America".

Guanajuato owes its rich historic centre to its mining past flourishing mostly in silver extraction in the 18th century after the decline of Potosi. The mines were so rich that the city was one of the most influential during the colonial period. One of the mines, La Valenciana, accounted for two-thirds of the world's silver production at the height of its production. The several mines of Guanajuato alone would also warrant inscription on their own and are much better than others on the list although most can get very touristy. Knowing that the official title of this WHS is the "Historic Town of Guanajuato and Adjacent Mines", I diligently visited most of the mines, or what's left of them, without necessarily doing all their tours by using the excuse of being interested to visit their gift shop (and buying something to eat from each (excellent dulche de leche): the Mine of San Juan de Rayas (looks like a fortification or castle from the city's panoramic view), the Valenciana Mine, the El Nopal Mine, the Guadalupe Mine and the Rocamina San Ramon.

The best place to admire a magnificent view over the city is definitely by riding the Panoramico Funicular to the El Pipila Monument (morning light is best for photography). The highlight buildings of Guanajuato are the university building and the Juarez Theatre just in front of the pruned trees of the Jardin de la Union (open to visitors when there aren't performances scheduled). The many fountains, alleys, colourful churches and chapels require at least 2-3 days to appreciate well how they come to life at different times of the day and night. A real gem! 

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