First published: 05/07/17.

Clyde 4.0

Mausoleum Of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi

Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi (Inscribed)

Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi by Clyde

I visited this WHS in June 2017. This site is the main reason I included Kazakhstan on my Uzbekistan-Turkmenistan trip and I'm glad I spent 2 nights in Turkestan as the mausoleum didn't disappoint.

Even after having visited Uzbekistan's Timurid monuments, this mausoleum still ranks as one of the most grandiose and best-preserved in the region. The mausoleum alone can be visited in less than an hour but it would be a great pity not to revisit at different times of the day (if you're lucky enough to visit on a sunny day) to view the intricate geometric designs and turquoise and blue tiles with the best light conditions.

Moreover, most of the pilgrims visit just after sunrise or just before sunset and go round the main building touching the walls and stopping every now and then to pray. Even though entrance to the mausoleum and all the other buildings is from 9am till 6pm, the whole complex exterior can be visited freely at any time of the day. The fact that it is still an active pilgrimage site adds to the whole experience in my opinion. In the morning the best lighting is on the reconstructed fortification walls and main entrance gate, while in the later afternoon, the best lighting is on the rear part of the mausoleum and its domes.

There are UNESCO signs all over the place even in front of buildings which have nothing to do with the inscription. However, there is a simple makeshift sign in front of the mausoleum's entrance depicting the mausoleum's inscription on the WH list. Visiting the other buildings is worthwhile if you have the time. Lighting at night is very weak and almost non-existent.

Close to the Turkish Mosque, some camels are kept and actually still graze in the 'mausoleum complex'. The modern mosque has glass walls and the Khoja Ahmed Mausoleum can be seen from its inside at all times. The local museum is also worth visiting even though it doesn't offer much in terms of added value.

Another important aspect worth mentioning is that the Koranic script and motifs present in the geometric tiles has not been totally erased during restoration during Soviet times (unlike what has happened in other Uzbek Timurid monuments) even though there still were some mistakes. At least some original script is present. The only WHS I haven't visited (yet) in Kazakhstan is Tamgaly but judging on what I read about the site, I think I can safely say that the Khoja Ahmed Yasawi Mausoleum is hands down Kazakhstan's best WHS and one of the top WHS on the list.

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