I visited this WHS in April 2018. Although I left this medina as Morocco's last WHS to visit, it really didn't disappoint. It is truly a top WHS on par with Marrakech even though quite different. I felt Fes is more of an all-rounder, in the sense that it has a number of superb buildings and monuments but what is truly of OUV is that it still is very much alive as a medina.

Fes is the world's largest car-free urban space and it's a maze of alleys, dead ends, archways, medersas, mosques and palaces. It is also believed to have one the oldest universities in the world, the University of Al-Karaouine. The only down side (but in a way it could perhaps be a positive thing is it helps to avoid turning the places into a mere museum) is that most religious places are only accessible to Muslims.

This doesn't mean that you'll be missing out on all of Fes' highlights and you can still have a peek through the doorways of the restricted buildings. Out of the several medersas, three really stand out for the outstanding architecture and art, namely the Al Attarine Medersa, the Sahrij Medersa and the Al Bouanania Medersa (photo). Apparently, the Sahrij Medersa will no longer be open to non-Muslim visitors as it will be used to teach Islamic calligraphy as of May this year. The Al Attarine and the Al Bouanania Medresas are truly works of art even though I would choose the latter if I were forced to choose only one as it is right in the heart of the medina and stands opposite the interesting Dar Al Magana with its weight-powered water clock.

Even though the numerous mosques and shrines are only accessible to Muslims, you can still look at what some have to offer in terms of their Islamic architecture and art. Top of the list are definitely the Kairaouine Mosque and the Zaouia Moulay Idriss II shrine. Practically from any terrace or roof-top, you can spot the main mosque's minaret. Other minarets (and different neighborhoods) worth visiting are those of Al Anouar, Des Andalous, El Rcif, Boujloud and Semmarine.

Out of these minarets and mosques, the first two are worth visiting as they are situated in a very interesting neighborhood, quite away from the hustle and bustle, and have splendid zellij works. On the other hand, the latter three, are very photogenic and are close to three important gates with the same names. My riad was situated very close to Bab Boujloud (the most famous of the gates) and I used the central alley/street behind the gate as an axis to cover as much of Fes as possible (on foot) in 3 days.

Even though Fes is really a HUGE maze, part of the fun is exploring the different alleys and experiencing the crazy everyday life of Fes locals (even though I would avoid getting lost at night time; but during the daytime it's really an experience in itself!). I loved having mint tea at different cafes with terraces and every time I was impressed with the lovely panoramic view over Fes especially early in the morning.

Other minor places to visit but which can turn out to be very worthwhile are the market and gate of Kasbah Nour, the Nejjarine fountain and square, as well as the crumbling remains of the Merinides tombs (especially at sunset), offering an incredible bird's eye view over Fes's urban sprawl. From here, you will most definitely see several locals with their donkeys, bringing the dyed hides and skins from the tanneries and leaving them dry in the sun.

Last but not least, Fes is also famous for its tanneries. Over the internet, I read a lot about touts trying to 'escort' you to one of the leather shop terraces. I cannot deny this, but travelling solo and with an open mind will surely help you enjoy a view of the tanneries without too much hassles and with just a small tip to the leather shop. Just be adamant about what you want BEFORE going in any leather shop and try timing your visit after one of the larger groups so that you can spend more time at the terrace (if the smell is not too much for you to stomach). I can recommend a visit to Terrasse Sidi Moussa around noon or 1pm for optimum light conditions for photography and the best panoramic view over the Chaouwara Tanneries.