First published: 22/09/21.

Clyde 4.0

Nemrut Dag

Nemrut Dag (Inscribed)

Nemrut Dag by Clyde

I visited this WHS in Spring 2021. I arrived in the small town of Karadut via several minor scenic roads from Goreme NP. A very long drive indeed but it was an enjoyable one with fauna and bird sightings en route and worthwhile stopovers and panoramic viewpoints near the Roman bridge of Severan.

The narrow roads from Adimiyan or Kahta (the two main cities for tour departures) are a good hour to 90 minutes away from the Nemrut Dag visitor centre. The one hour ride both ways for a visit (especially if you opt to visit at sunrise) is quite dangerous and tiring so staying overnight in Karadut is an investment, also to beat the first tourist groups. Moreover, there are secondary archaeological sites which are worth visiting if you have extra time to spare such as Arsemia, Cendere and Karakus. The visitor centre had only a couple of information boards on the site excavation and facts on the site and on the German archaeologist Friedrich Karl Dörner when I visited, and the whole metal roof had incredibly been blown away by the frequent strong winds. The UNESCO signs nailed to the wall withstood the strong winds though. There are two separate entrances to the Nemrut Dag WHS: one from the top, beneath the artificial mound and several stairs, which you drive up to after paying the entrance ticket, and another from the National Park, well beneath the artificial mound, which involves a longer hike up. 

The artificial mound, assumed to be a royal tomb from the 1st century BC, is the first peak (2,134 metres high) to be lit east of the Taurus Mountains by the early morning sun rays and remains lit the longest towards sunset. The pinkish-reddish sun rays are ideal for photography although on a sunny day, any time will be satisfying. In the morning the Eastern Terrace will be lit, while in the afternoon the Western Terrace will be lit. When we visited, the stairs leading up to Nemrut Dagi were infested with hundreds if not thousands of black, blue and green grasshoppers hopping around everywhere especially on the white stairs. Apart from the visitor centre, there are makeshift toilets available a few steps away from the Eastern Terrace. The mount and the lined statue remains are all roped off with security guards making sure the off limits signs are respected as much as possible.

The Eastern Terrace which measures 45 metres by 50 metres is the largest of the three terraces. Since 2002, the colossal statues are aligned in front of their respective bodies on the western side of the terrace. These are, from left/north to right/south, the protective animal statues of a lion and an eagle, and the heads of Antiochus, Commagene (the only female figure), Zeus, Apollo, Herakles, and once again the statues of an eagle and a lion. The bodies of the respective statues are 8-9 metres high, while the heads are 2.5-3.5 metres high including the tiaras (headwear). The statues are depicted in a seated position with the feet positioned on a stool. The eagle statues represent the domination of the Kingdom of Commagene over the skies. Additionally, it was believed that Zeus used an eagle to communicate his orders to mankind. On the other hand, the lions represent the domination of the Kingdom of Commagene over the earth. In front of the statues there is the fire altar/platform in the shape of a stepped pyramid which offers splendid views (in the morning) of the Eastern Terrace right above the stanchions holding the rope in place.

The Western Terrace is best viewed in the afternoon especially towards sunset. It is 10 metres below the Eastern Terrace due to the natural inclination of the mountain and mound. In order to enlarge this naturally smaller terrace, an L-shaped retaining wall was constructed. The Western Terrace has been affected more by past seismic activity and erosion than the other terraces due to climatic factors. It is largely similar to the Eastern Terrace with 5 God statues (Antiochus, Commagene, Zeus, Apollo and Herakles) and protectice lions and eagles on either end. This terrace also has stelae depicting ancestors and there also small altars but none are similar to the stepped pyramid altar in the Eastern Terrace. The Western Terrace is also known for its sanctification reliefs and a relief of a lion horoscope, possibly the oldest horoscope in the world, showing an arrangement of stars and the planets Jupiter, Mercury and Mars. The composition was taken to be a chart of the sky on 7 July 62 BC. This may be an indication of when construction began on this monument. This peculiar relief has been recently restored and for the time being can be admired at the Adimiyan Museum.

The Northern Terrace, situated to the northwest of the tumulus, is like a narrow rectangle and contains sandstone plinths. Next to these plinths lie collapsed stelae which bear no inscriptions or reliefs. 

This open air museum is a really impressive WHS and certainly didn't disappoint, if only for the sheer size and magnitude of the whole site. It really was worth the long drive to get there, and sleeping overnight in Karadut made it easy to revisit in the morning without having to wake up too early.

Comments

No comments yet.

Log in to post a comment