First published: 06/04/16.

Clyde 3.5

Ohrid Region

Ohrid Region (Inscribed)

Ohrid Region by Clyde

I visited this mixed WHS in March 2016. There are only 28 mixed WHS on the list and I must say that they rarely disappoint. Lake Ohrid is FYROM's/Macedonia's only WHS and also its main tourist attraction. However, tourist crowds flock mainly in the summer months, so I was really surprised to be able to enjoy the main sites alone most of the time. I drove from Skopje to Lagadin which is a very straightforward journey and it's signposted well from the airport. The Unesco road sign is already proudly displayed almost 190km away! The lake management is quite rigorous and no water sports are allowed. Only boats allowed are a couple of fishing boats mainly used for sunset trips from Ohrid to Sveti Johan over at Kaneo or else 2 ferries from Ohrid to Sveti Naum. There are a few dodgy concrete lake resort structures which have been built too close to the shores and have reduced the reed beds surrounding the lake. However, there aren't any high structures and Ohrid's landscape is really lovely with the city walls high above and several churches to visit. Although practically all the lake towns are included in the inscription, all the main sites are around Ohrid proper and then there's a lovely monastery 29km away, just 4 km from the Albanian border, that shouldn't be missed. It has some of the best frescoes inside and it's still used as a place of worship today. It's a very tranquil place with peacocks roaming freely around. There is a barge restaurant which is great for a quick bite or to grab a cup of coffee. Near the restaurant, there are boat trips to the Naum Springs which are also part of the Galicica National Park. I went to Sveti Naum by car and I was able to visit the pile dwellings reconstruction on the way, the other lake towns and visit the Galicica National Park hiking trail to Velestovo on the way back. The other main sites are all in Ohrid. The best frescoes in my opinion are those at the Holy Mary Perybleptos Church, just near the ancient theatre before reaching the upper gate. The most photogenic church away from any modern construction is Sveti Johan which can be reached on foot from the harbour by walking on a wooden trail over Lake Ohrid. I went there at all times of the day, several times, and I must say that the colours at sunset with the church overlooking the lake are really worth the short hike. You can also get there by following a short trail from Plaosnik which goes through several pine trees. The old basilica and monastery dedicated to Saint Panteleimon is beautifully set nearby with several mosaics and excavations are still going on. However, a huge concrete 'university' is being built just next to it which in my opinion is quite an eyesore. The Church of St Sophia has some interesting frescoes too but the most interesting feature of the church is the inscription in the brickwork just under the eaves on the rear facade. This church was constructed in the 10th century and converted to a mosque during the Ottoman Period. All churches have separate entrance fees of around 2 euros each. St Naum also charges a parking fee of 1 euro for the day while the City of Ohrid charges 50c per hour for parking next to the harbour (07:30-01:30). The city of Ohrid is still alive and hasn't been turned into museum city despite having been inscribed several years ago. The locals are very friendly and the different religious and ethnic communities seem to get along quite well nowadays. I had a great time visiting this WHS and would gladly visit again in the future.

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