I visited this WHS in June 2019 focusing on a number of different locations in Peru. Like the Struve Geodetic Arc WHS, the Qhapac Nan WHS requires a lot of preparation mainly by reading parts of the 500MB+ nomination file, using the Find function on the PDF version and writing down a number of GPS coordinates.

The Qhapac Nan or Andean Road System was an administrative, transportation and communications system also used to demarcate the 4 basic divisions of the Inca Empire. The system expanded on almost all the territory of the Andes, nowadays Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador, Argentina, Chile and Colombia.

A main path started in Cusco towards each of the four suyos or regions. The roads were inscribed in the geography of the State. The Qhapac Nan connected Cusco with the main administrative centres of the Inca empire like for example Pachacamac (more info on the archaeological site itself in another review of the tentative site). Pachacamac is the main part of the inscribed Xauxa/Jauja - Pachacamac coastal desert section (p. 930 of the nomination file) in the Lurin Valley. It was the second largest urban centre after Cusco. This section is made up of two different types of road systems. The coastal road to Pachacamac was originally one of the best and most used roads since the times of the Wari Empire. It was also used by the first Spaniards who arrived in Peru in 1533. On the other hand, the route along the sierra linked to Jaula. It was part of a great expansion, integration and territorial control project which overcame treacherous geography and varied climate.

The origin of the road system was located in Cusco, exactly the Plaza Inca Hanan Hauk'aypata section. If you look attentively, you will spot a plaque on the pavement commemorating the road system. Apart from the Inca walls and foundations which also count for the Cusco WHS, I visited the minor archaeological remains at Plaza Limaqpampa which were open when I visited but did not add much to my Qhapac Nan experience. The road system within walking distance from Sacsayhuaman and the Templo de la Luna/Chukimarka is part of the Machucucho - Choquecancha section, specifically the Inca Gaka - Qollotayoc subsection (PE-OL-17/C-2011). Even though a visit to Cusco will technically yield 2 WHS, you'll need a lot of research and ideally more visits further away to better understand the OUV of this WHS. In a way it's like walking the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela vs simply visiting a random location or two by car or public transport. Especially because it is more of an intangible cultural WHS.

The road system also includes several architectural components apart from the main centres mentioned above. Bridges and pulley bridges used over rivers were built to save the continuity of trails along the rugged geography of the Andes. The best rope bridge examples can be seen along the Ollantaytambo - Lares - Valle Lacco section especially towards the Machu Picchu Inca Trail. The surrounding natural environment is definitely much more interesting than the seemingly randomly aligned stones and earth structures on the floor. The archaeological site of Ollantaytambo strangely enough doesn't seem to be part of the Qhapac Nan inscription. 

Other important architectural elements include 'tambos' or lodging places with storage facilities, 'kanchas' or rectangular spaces surrounded by walls enclosing several structures, and 'kallankas' or large rectangular buildings within the kanchas, probably used as rest areas. Trying hard to see a good combination of road system remains and architectural elements, I planned a half day trip from Cusco to the Cusco - Desaguadero section, specifically the Portada Rumiqolqa - Ch’uspitakana segment. The road crosses the Life Zone Low Montane Subtropical dry forest at an altitude of 3100m above sea level.

It starts in Huacarpay and passes through Pikillaqta (incuded in Cusco's bolleto general) and Portada de Rumiqolqa (free). The road is located in the Vicanota River basin associated with the Lucre-Huacarpay wetland, formed by a series of expanses of water and considered a Ramsar site so already a worthwhile detour just for natural landscapes and birdwatching (spotted several birds of prey, woodpeckers and hummingbirds here). In the Pikillaqta Archaeological Site and also at Portada Rumiqolqa/Rumicolca, it is easy to appreciate the pre-Incan structures and not only the Incan ones. The former has strategic wooden watchtowers which are very helpful to appreciate the urban planning and countless buildings in ruins. This settlement was an important enclave in the context of the Wari’s expansive policy and was partially reoccupied during the Inca supremacy. Portada de Rumiqolqa fulfilled road control functions between the capital of the Tawantinsuyu (nowadays Cusco) and the Qollasuyu region. The road’s structure is formed by pyramid-shaped buttresses suitable for the previous aqueduct infrastructure that supplied the Pikillaqta citadel with water. Apart from the Qhapac Nan information boards found along most of the inscribed sites, at Portada de Rumicolca there's also a UNESCO WHS plaque (photo).

I tend to like these WHS with endless locations which turn a visit into a sort of treasure-hunt. However, even with a lot of research and reading up beforehand, it is very difficult to appreciate the OUV of this site as most of it is basically intangible. The road system remains as an evidence of the ingenious constructive technology which was adapted to the rugged Andean geography. The different sections, subsections and segments give access to different landscapes with varied natural settings but probably what I certainly won't forget from my visits are the breathtaking (literally, because of the high altitude) natural views and not the different structures and routes which make up this cultural heritage.