First published: 11/03/22.

Clyde 2.5

Querétaro

Querétaro (Inscribed)

Querétaro by Clyde

I visited this WHS in January 2022. Querétaro (note the accent on the second e for the correct pronunciation!) main peculiarity among the inscribed colonial towns or cities of Mexico is its layout which is practically split in two: a rectilinear street plan for the Spanish settlers and small winding streets for the quarters of the indigenous population.

From its "historic monuments zone" the definite highlights not to be missed in my opinion are the Church of Santa Rosa de Viterbo, the Church of Santa Cruz (together with the nearby mirador over the high aqueduct with modern high-rise buildings in the background), the Former Convent of St Augustine, the Casa de la Ecala and the Casa de la Marquesa. The absolute highlight not to be missed when visiting Querétaro is definitely the Church of Santa Rosa de Viterbo, with its outstanding over-the-top interior with three gilded altarpieces and a throne-like main chair, as well as the equally interesting Mexican colonial Baroque exterior with indigenous features.

The mirador over the high aqueduct is perhaps more enjoyable after sunset when the eyesore of the high-rise buildings in the background vanishes. Here there is a big UNESCO WHS plaque of the Camino Real, There's another one dedicated to the Camino Real near the traffic lights just opposite the Church of San Francis of Assisi. On the other hand, the UNESCO WHS plaque of Querétaro is on the side of the Palacio de Gobierno.

The former church and convent of St Augustine now houses the Art Museum of Querétaro. Its highlight is the unmissable Baroque patio and cloister (closed on Mondays). This great and emblematic property was built in the 18th century from 1731 to 1743. In the Baroque courtyard there are several iconographic elements making it one of the most beautiful cloisters in the Americas. The Augustinians remained in the building until 1859. Following the reforms enacted during the government of President Benito Juarez, the building became property of the state and was used as miltary barracks, federal palace, post office and finance office, before becoming an art museum in 1987-1988.

The courtyard is divided in three levels: the lower cloister, the upper cloister and the sky. The lower cloister represents the world, the temporary work if the militant church, the sacrifice of Christ, as well as the history vocation and charisma of the Augustinian Order. The highlight of this level are the anthropomorphic figures known as "Hermes" that refer to the three stages of human life and spiritual evolution: youth, maturity and old age. On the keystone of the arches there are allusions to Saint Augustine as well as Augustinian saint distinguished by their work or miracles. The fountain of the cloister is one of the principal elements and it represents Christ as the source of eternal life. The upper cloister represents the church and its ministers. Young looking anthropomorphic figures represent the priests praying and manifesting the mystery of the Holy Trinity. They have a pipe in their mouths and spout rainwater which symbolically represents the cleansing of sins with divine grace. In the keystones, monks and nuns remind those who gaze at them of the duties of monastic life. Last but not least, the sky represents the kingdom of heaven, the dwelling place of God.

Even if you don't splurge to actually stay at the boutique hotel, do allow some time to have a look at the beautiful Casa de la Marquesa still adorned with old authentic frescoes and furniture in very good condition. Make sure to also visit the Casa de la Ecala if you have the time. After seeing the ubiquitous doll all over Mexico, I was glad to allow some time to learn more about it at the Museo de la Muñeca Artesanal in Amealco. Another strange thing to do is to try eating the traditional Pedos de Monja (chocolate pralines literally known as nun farts).

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