I visited this WHS in January 2020. Even though there are direct flights to Gran Canaria, I wasn't eager to spend a week on this island (even before WHS inscription). Although it is quite a big island of the Canaries, I knew I'd find the smaller ones much more interesting and to my liking.

So I opted for a fully packed return ferry trip from Tenerife (departing from Santa Cruz de Tenerife NOT Los Cristianos). With careful planning beforehand (a big thank you to Solivagant as his review was by far the best information and travel advice online about the Risco Caido WHS), I managed to follow an almost perfect loop from Agaete, up along the GC-220 road till about Juncalillo, then towards Artenara and Tejeda along the GC-21 and GC-210, going inwards to the Roque Bentayga interpretation center and Cuevas del Rey, and then following the GC-150 back to the Juncalillo point after enjoying the Roque Nublo and Pico de las Nieves viewpoints. That was the plan, so I printed out all my Google maps which turned out very handy and way better than the GPS dirt track alternatives I was given on the spot.

Just before reaching the GC-21 road to Artenara, I passed through a pine forest which had suffered extensive damage from fires in the previous years, and on the left hand side of the road (coming from Agaete's direction) I noticed a steep hill with a faded turquoise signpost marking the Zona Arqueologica Cuevas del Caballero. This was not planned at all but just a matter of luck. However, since it was still relatively early compared to my plans, I decided to check it out. Not trusting the steep but narrow road uphill, I parked my car nearby and ventured on foot to a series of 12 caves, most of which were used as dwellings. These caves are locally known as Las Machas because of a popular belief that this place was once used by women that practised witchcraft. Legends aside, there are several engravings here even though they aren't very visible. Nearby and deeper in Risco Chapin there are Cueva del Cagarrutal which I didn't visit and Cueva de los Candiles where there are more triangular engravings that have been identified as fertility symbols (vulvae?) used by ancient Canarios. Those who are keen on rock art (think Rock art of the Iberian peninsula, Samuel!) might have a field day here (perhaps with some purposely developed app to help spotting the engravings/art). Compared to the other sites I visited later, I would skip this uphill hike in favour of more time around Tejeda.

Next I drove further uphill after Artenara and Tejeda following the signs to the 1414 metre Roque Bentayga. There is a small intepretation centre here displaying a very informative video which is ideal to understand this WHS's "story" and importance as well as knowing what to look out for when visiting Cuevas del Rey afterwards. There is no UNESCO WHS plaque yet but I've seen lots of blank information boards around clearly showing that everything is pretty much still being slowly prepared.

From the interpretation there's an easy uphill hike (definitely not 1 hour long even with extensive photo stops) to the Almogaren, one of the main astronomical markers used by the Amazigh people of Gran Canaria who possibly used this place as a shrine. The Roque Bentayga rampart also served as a fortification in the conquest of Gran Canaria Weather permitting, you'll be able to take in a wonderful view of the Tejeda ravine. This linear 2 kilometre ridge to Risco Caido which is so important for the bygone indigenous troglodyte settlements, including Roque Bentayga and the Roque del Camello and Anden del Tabacalete burial niches, is the core area of this WHS. The Tejeda Ravine was also declared part of the World Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO, covering 14 million years of geological history of Gran Canaria.

Even though the video in the Bentayga interpretation center describes the Cuevas del Rey as practically inaccessible due to erosion, to date it is still possible to visit. There are no signs, perhaps to deter most from visiting, however if you follow the signs to El Roque and the GC-607 road you can't miss it. Cuevas del Rey is home to one of the island's best painted caves which is part of a troglodyte settlement where a large fortified granary in the upper areas of the ridge stands out. With the necessary caution, on a sunny day it is still possible to visit. There's a rope over the eroded ridge to help you keep your balance, however if you don't have a head for heights don't even try visiting it. My recent visit to Huayna Picchu, Peru, was a piece of cake compared to this even though it's not as high.

There are both natural and man-made caves located on different levels. In addition to cave dwellings, there are also cavities adapted to serve as granaries or burial niches. The biggest and best cave is the Cueva del Guayre were there are as much as 44 dug out holes on the ground and its walls have contrast of black and red paint. It is believed to have been an important area used for rituals.

After visiting the Ayacato and the pine forests near Roque Nublo and Pico de las Nieves mostly for the superb views, I decided to drive back to Artenara as the afternoon sun was much better for photography there. It was funny to see the replica cave of Risco Caido in pieces on the roadside just outside the new visitor centre which is supposed to be opening soon in February 2020. The Mirador de Unamuno and the Museo Casas Cuevas (only 200 metres away; open daily 11:30-16:30) made for a worthwhile stop too. From there I drove to Barranco Hondo to briefly explore Las Cuevas. There, next to a metal cross near some public gym furnishings, I spotted a small blue sign pointing towards Risco Caido Yacimiento Arqueologico. From here head staight on for quite a long way downhill till you pass a water catchment area and dam and you'll then see 21 restored caves which are now closed with brown doors/windows. Risco Caido is even compared to Mesa Verde on information boards around Gran Canaria but, although I haven't visited MV yet, is surely an exageration. Without the possibility of freely exploring the main cave (even if somewhat possible as Solivagant explained in his review), and without the extraordinary nightime photos accompanying the nomination dossier, I'd easily skip Risco Caido altogether if I were to revisit.

So all in all, even though I was initially against Spain's policy of obsessively adding a WHS on each Spanish territory and not having high expectations, the fact my short visit was like a sort of treasure hunt, trying to match Google maps' coordinates with the reality on the ground, made it a very pleasant one overall. It is one of those WHS for which the "story" in the nomination dossier adds meaning to the few tangible heritage left and as such it has OUV and fills a few gaps in the list. I felt I learnt quite a lot through this adventure visit thanks to this WHS. Without its inscription, perhaps I would have only enjoyed the great views the island has to offer, possibly missing out on all the inscribed area.

Photos: Candiles engravings (top left), Bentayga and Cuevas del Rey (top middle), Cuevas del Rey interior (top right), Bentayga and Almogaren (bottom left), Risco Caido (bottom middle), Bentayga and Teide view from Roque Nublo (bottom right).