
I visited this WHS in 2023 as a side trip from Ruse. The Roussensky Lom River is the last deep tributary of the Danube river on its right side. It creates a fan-shaped network in the Danube Plain with picturesque canyons and vertical rocks. Seen from a distance, this landscape reminded me of the landscape of India's Ajanta Caves, however, the overall atmosphere is more comparable to the rock churches of Turkey's Goreme National Park or Greece's Meteora (without the monastery buildings though). It is believed that after Joachim I's return from Mount Athos, he cut out a small church in the rocks in the Lom River valley and later created a large rock monastery close to existing natural caves that were used as monk cells.
After parking deep inside the canyon area, I opted to take the stairs straight to the highlight of this WHS, namely the Church of the Holy Virgin (currently the only accessible one; open daily although might be closed from December to March). Although the church is quite small, when compared to its use at the time among single cells cut in the rock, cave monasteries and rock-hewn chapels, most only accessible by ropes, ladder or dangerous wooden staircases, it is considered as one of the largest churches in the canyon, with a chapel attached to its northern wall. The church is around 30 metres above the river level and in the past there was a defence ditch around it. A wooden enclosure with glass windows and a dangerous looking balcony helps keep away most birds and bats as well as better protect the delicate Medieval paintings.
The frescoes are believed to be the best preserved ones of the 14th century on the Balkan peninsula. Some of the scenes that can be seen inside are the Annunciation, the Nativity, the Transfiguration, Palm Sunday, the Last Supper, Judas' Suicide, Pontius Pilate washing his hands, and the Beheading of John the Baptist can be seen in the narthex. The frescoes in the chapel show the story of St. Jerome of Jordan. After visiting the Church of the Holy Virgin, I decided to walk further up and follow the longer walk back to the parking area. By doing so I could gaze at the pleasant natural surroundings and get a panoramic view of some of the other inaccessible components (best viewed using binoculars or a very good zoom lens). It seems that the next component planned to become accessible to tourists hopefully in the near future is the complex of the "Large Church" and the "Palace" close by what is known as the "Buried Church". There are fragments of frescoes of St. Peter of Alexandria and the image of a healing saint in the "Large Church" and large spacious chambers in the "Palace" which is why it got such a nickname. The frescoes from the collapsed ceiling in the "Buried Church" were removed from the rock and are exhibited in the Rousse Regional Museum of History.
Instead of trying to be inscribed separately for its natural properties, I think that the Roussensky Lom National Park (tWHS) together with the rock monasteries near the Medieval town of Cherven would have a better chance of being inscribed as an extension to this WHS, possibly making it a mixed site if there truly is any OUV under the natural WHS criteria. Even if this never happens, better signs and nature trails would be of great help for people to better explore and appreciate the pleasant area.
More on
Comments
No comments yet.