I visited this WHS in June 2017 over 4 days. It certainly is one of the best destinations in the world and certainly one of the top WHS on the list, not only for the exquisite beauty of all the single inscribed locations but also for the incredible ensemble this place must have been when constructed!

That said, I believe that Samarkand should be immediately put on the WHS in danger as the 'modern' and unprofessional patchwork of restorations/reconstructions risk ruining if not destroying the gems of Registan. That would certainly have a much stronger effect than delisting Shakhrisyabz as Uzbekistan's tourism is mainly based on Registan's allure. If I were to post the mortal sins I've photographed from Registan, I could easily have a negative impact on their tourism which is heavily dependent on European travellers. Instead I sent a letter to UNESCO and ICOMOS and I hope that they will take swift action to address such shoddy restoration works in the future. Still, the 3 madrasahs of Registan alone would be worthy of inscription and are hands down one of the best sites the WH list has to offer.

At night, if tour group/agencies pay around 1000 dollars (so I was told), a sound, light and laser show is put up - this equipment has led to some of the shoddy restorations! If you're not so lucky (or if like me you cherish visiting without too many tour groups, no show most probably means less people around), still the madrasahs are fully lit and worth visiting. The Registan ensemble has undergone some significant changes lately. The Soviet style 'mosaics' near the viewing platform has been changed with white marble (not so wise as it is very slippery in rainy conditions, extremely hot in sunny conditions). All the fruit trees and soil in the main 'square' have been removed to be able to host fashion shows, concerts, festivals and have an unobstructed view of the madrasahs. Moreover, the square is roped and fenced with guards blowing their whistle to any trespassers who haven't paid the 13 euro ticket which grants access to all the Registan ensemble till sunset. After sunset there is a separate night ticket. Strangely enough there is no 2 or 3 day ticket as most visitors stay for just one night! In the Ulugbek Madrasah you can haggle hard with a shop vendor to let you up one of the leaning minarets for an incredible panoramic view of the Sher-Dor Madrasah and Registan ensemble in general (best light is in the afternoon just before sunset). I managed to go up for about 5 euros but he usually charges around 10 euros! Try to visit during weekdays as the climb up the minaret is very claustrophobic and there isn't space for more than one person up there.

The WHS of Samarkand is not only Registan though. It is a never-ending list of incredible buildings and sites with sublime Islamic art and architecture. I would suggest at least 3 full days to explore (and re-explore) the sites at different times of the day and at leisure. All of them are really worth it. Instead of the several 4 or 5 star hotels, I specifically opted for the Bibi Khanum B&B for its incredible location. Every morning I loved having breakfast with a panoramic view of the Bibi Khanum Mosque and Mausoleum (morning light is the best light).

Further on from the Bibi Khanum Mosque is another breathtaking site, the Shah-i-Zinda Ensemble (morning light is best to gaze at the shining turqoise carvings and tiles, while afternoon light is great for pictures of the domes from the cemetery). The old necropolis has 3 main highlights: Shodi Mulk Oko Mausoleum, Shirin Beka Oka Mausoleum and Kusam Ibn Abbas Complex. The latter seems quite modern and rather plain from the entrance but if you head inside you will immediately notice that it is the where all local pilgrims head to. I was surprised to see female Islam preachers praying here. The site is dedicated to Kusam Ibn Abbas who is believed to be one of the first missionaries of Islam in Central Asia (bottom left photo).

Further ahead from Shah-i-Zinda are the remains of the ancient settlement of Afrosiyob. There's not much to see on the muddy and dusty hills apart from some ongoing excavation works. The true highlight is to be found in the nearby museum where there is the recently restored 'Painting of the Ambassadors', a masterpiece of the centre of the Sogdian culture (bottom middle photo).

Other worthwhile inscribed sites are best visited by taxi (very cheap). The Ulugbek Observatory and museum is now open. The underground quadrant still bears embossed astronomic calculations in arabic script and other engravings on its arc. It reminded me of my visit of Jantar Mantar in India but what is incredible is that Ulugbek's calculation of a year is the closest to our calendar year with a margin of error of only 1 minute and 2 seconds! No wonder European travellers used to travel here to learn more! Last but not least, the Amir Temur Mausoleum, Gur Emir, has an incredible interior which you shouldn't miss. Do read up before and after visiting these wonderful sites as there's so much to learn and discover here.