First published: 03/07/17.

Clyde 3.0

Saryarka

Saryarka (Inscribed)

Saryarka by Clyde

I visited this WHS in June 2017. From Astana, we drove for around 2 hours (130km) to the "Bird Paradise" Visitor Centre in Korgalzhyn. The impressive flat steppe view will kick in after you exit Astana and will continue till you get to Korgalzhyn. Countless horses and cattle, a few old Soviet Union ghost buildings, and a vast never-ending flat steppe. Road conditions are not too bad but careless overtaking and non-existing markings on the asphalt are the cause of frequent car accidents.

Once in Korgalzhyn, we visited the Visit Center "Birds Paradise" with its old dioramaas and watched the 20 minute information video named "Mystery of protected lands". Hanging on the wall among different birding certificates, I spotted the original UNESCO Biosphere inscription certificate but not the UNESCO WHS inscription certificate. Korgalzhyn Nature Reserve is the largest protected area in Kazakhstan and is at the crossroads of migration routes for migratory birds, making it one of the key ornithological areas of international importance with 346 bird species, 700 butterfly species, 14 fish species, 374 species of flora, 2 species of frogs, 4 species of snakes and 43 species of fauna. Outside of the designated area, I could already spot pygmy owls, swans, marsh harriers, pelicans, herons, warblers and several waders apart from several marmots.

Instead of losing precious time to take lunch, I brought some packed lunch with me and spent more time by the designated lakes. We drove more than 60km offroad on grassland and shrubland to see flocks of pink flamingos, cranes, lapwings, plovers and Dalmatian pelicans and increase our chances of spotting some fauna. We were quite lucky as we spotted a red fox and a white Arctic fox feasting on a Northern Lapwing. We were told that saigas are easier to spot in winter as they get closer to the 'ecoroute' and frozen lakes. However, saigas are mostly present close to the other inscribed reserve of Naurzum. Before entering the inscribed area proper, there is a painted UNESCO inscription sign and information board. The 'cafeteria' was open when we visited and it practically had only water, soft drinks, coffee and tea for sale! The bird hides are not located in the best places and the whole 'infrastructure' is old, broken or falling down to pieces.

All in all, I'm glad I visited this WHS as a long worthwhile day trip away from urban Astana before heading to Turkestan.

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