
I visited this WHS in July 2016. I drove here from Vaxjo and after crossing the bridge to the island I stopped on the right to pick up some information brochures and maps. It was really a wise thing to do as the interesting sites are not visible on most GPS navigators and are only marked with a brown sign along the road. However, any resting spot, hotel or windmill might have the same brown sign so without a map you might miss worthwhile stops. Hopefully, now that I've been there I can give some pointers on what in my opinion is worth visiting and the names you should be on the lookout for. I inputted Ottenby Nature Reserve on my GPS and drove along the outermost road with the flat Stora Alvaret on one side (a limestone habitat of several rare and endangered species) and the Baltic Sea on the other. The Stora Alvaret landscape is nowadays an agricultural landscape with several mounds and burial stones here and there. Aesthetically it reminded me a lot of Hvar, Croatia or Terceira in the Azores. Oland is the second largest island in Sweden so expect to drive for an hour or so to get to the southernmost tip but you'll be stopping along the way and walking for quite a bit so plan at least half a day to scratch the surface. I cannot understand why such a site has not been inscribed as a mixed site because it clearly has the potential. All the main cultural sites will be on your right hand side so keep it in mind while driving. For the first minutes you'll seriously think you're in the Netherlands with several wooden mills on a flat landscape. There are 2 types of mills: the tower mill also known as the 'Dutchman' with its top part turning into the wind (like the private Bjorhovda mill), and the post mill which turns completely towards the wind (like the Kvarnkungen windmill which can be visited for free). After that there are several smaller windmills and the quaint Blasas church. The first Bronze age and Iron age remains you'll encounter is the Mysinge burial mound. It is the second largest burial mound on Oland and together with the one at Gynge it forms part of a burial ground which is over 1km in length. Instead of having an entrance, most of the sites can be accessed by climbing wooden steps over the rubble walls which I think is quite an original idea. As I had already spent quite some time to get to Mysinge, I really started to think that if this WHS only had such burial mounds on offer together with a couple of standing stones and windmills it would just be a quick tick-off and really nothing special. However, on one of the information brochures I spotted a picture of the ship-shaped Gettlinge Burial Ground so I kept my eyes peeled for the sign with that name. After a short drive, I spotted the UNESCO WH sign and just opposite I saw the burial ground with 2 large limestone monoliths placed rather like an entrance. The Gettlinge burial ground extends for nearly 2 kms so I parked my car in one of the few spaces along the road (bicycles are the main means of transport here), climbed over the rubble wall used the steps provided and walked the 4km loop. The main highlight was the conspicuous ship-shaped burial (picture) which was only one of the over 200 different burials. Having visited Tanum the day before I could appreciate the context and importance of such a site which was probably in use for 1000 years, considering the different types of weapons and remains found here. Just before arriving at the Ottenby Nature Reserve, I stopped to see the Karl X Gustafs Wall which stretches between the two coasts of Öland. The surreal wall in open landscape is still in good condition and was built in 1653. The intention was to keep the deer in the royal hunting grounds from escaping, although many speculate it served the double purpose of keeping the peasants away from Duke Karl X's sport. Nowadays the road to Ottenby passes right through it but after visiting Ottenby on my way to Eketorp Fortress I manage to spot the other side of the wall. Finally I arrived at the Ottenby Nature Reserve and my eyes immediately feasted on countless amounts of lapwings, plovers, godwits, oystercatchers, geese, ducks, etc. The two-way road gets narrower in the reserve and as a driver you don't only have to pay attention to the never-ending amount of cyclists but also to the occasional black sheep or cattle crossing the road. The coast is what I imagine the High Coast or Kvarken Archipelago to be: an unspoilt coastline with several seals and sea lions basking in the sun, an incredible amount of birds and a salty sea breeze. Right at the tip of the island is the Lange Jan Lighthouse managed by BirdLife employees and open from 25 June to 7 August from 10am till 6pm. The few steps are definitely worth the panoramic view you'll be able to appreciate from up there. With a good camera zoom lens or a pair of binoculars you'll also be able to see the birdlife and sea mammals along the coast. A long hike inland close to the few trees on the Stora Alvaret will give you the opportunity to spot the golden oriole or the bluethroat but you'll need some expensive photo gear if you want a decent picture of them. To my delight, just before leaving Ottenby in the afternoon, hundreds of barnacle geese, mergansers, cormorants and eiders landed just near the car park and I was left speechless. Before heading to Karlskrona, I quickly visited the touristy Eketorp Fortress which is only worth visiting if you have children. All in all, this WHS might not be a top WHS but I think it deserves its place on the list and I'll gladly revisit for the birdwatching alone!
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