First published: 13/02/23.

Clyde 2.5

Stari Ras And Sopocani

Stari Ras and Sopocani (Inscribed)

Stari Ras and Sopocani by Clyde

I visited this WHS in 2022. This WHS is made up of four completely different locations and sites, and is one of those WHS which turned out to be a sort of mini treasure hunt to complete, reminding mostly of the Val de Boi churches in Catalunya or the Romanesque churches of Andorra, probably because of the Sopocani Monastery which stands out from all the other locations.

I must say I enjoyed my visit overall but I didn't have high expectations. I based myself at the comfortable and cheap RAS Pazatiste also mentioned in Philipp's review, away from the hustle and bustle of Novi Pazar. Just opposite the parking lot there are a few foundation remains and graffiti of what was once the Ras Medieval Town and Market Place. If it weren't for the brown sign just opposite the hotel's parking lot I wouldn't have even noticed. Near the wooden bridge entrance of the hotel, there is a UNESCO information board showing the tiny steep uphill trail to the Gradina Fortress wall remains on an outcrop high above the hotel. The trail begins from just next to the children's playground. Don't get startled as I did; there are a couple of stray dogs that made this trail their home. There isn't much to see if truth be told, not even a decent view. It is definitely the weakest location of the four.

Around 5 km away from the hotel, there's Sopocani Monastery, the highlight of this WHS (together with the monastery of Djurdjevi Stupovi near Novi Pazar). This monastery was an endowment of King Stefan Uros I of Serbia and was built between 1259 and 1270. Its interior frescoes were done periodically through the years following its completion in 1260 and vary from the classical art style of the church largely influenced by late Byzantine art, to a transition of Byzantine art periods, with less prominent influences from early Byzantine art dating to the era of Justinian I. Of the former monastery complex made up of numerous structures, today only the Church of the Holy Trinity remains. I really liked the frescoes hidden in the lateral chapels, as well as the most famous one of the Dormition of the Virgin on the western wall of the nave (photo). Outside the church there are faint and barely visible UNESCO information boards.

Nearer to the chaotic city of Novi Pazar, there are the remaining two locations. Even though they are nearer to the city, they are situated quite uphill and far away from each other or from anything else so I would not recommend basing yourself in Novi Pazar if you have car. The Church of the Holy Apostles Peter and Paul, commonly known as the Church of St. Peter, is a pretty church and quite scenic thanks to its several old engraved crosses. Recently more excavations were still taking place as was clear even during my visit. It was founded in the 4th century during Roman rule, with additions in the 7th and 9th centuries. After that, it served as the ecclesiastical seat of the Serbian church, and as the baptismal church and state council site of the Nemanjic dynasty, until the end of the 12th century. An entrance fee of 2 euros is charged if you're lucky enough to find "the guy with the key" or other tourists with an organised visit, and the main highlight is the huge fresco of St. Nicholas inside (no photography allowed once again and quite difficult to snap any sneakily).

Last but not least, there is the other monastery of Djurdjevi Stupovi, set high up on a hill with its own private grounds and woods. Not much is left on the inside and the few frescoes in my opinion are not on par with those of Sopocani, Studenica or Gracanica, however its somewhat reconstructed exterior is a beauty. Here there is a UNESCO WHS inscription plaque just next to the church as well as a UNESCO information board. Overall, I wasn't convinced by the coherence of these four locations and sites, although I enjoyed visiting them. Especially the very old monasteries possess OUV, but my guess is that its early inscription on the list way back in 1979 was key for inscription. I doubt it would make it as is, if it were to be nominated now.

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