First published: 09/03/24.

Clyde 2.5

Thracian Tomb Of Sveshtari

Thracian tomb of Sveshtari (Inscribed)

Thracian tomb of Sveshtari by Clyde

I visited this WHS in 2023. Although it certainly is less colourful than the Thracian tombs of Kazanlak and Alexandrovo, not only is it once again intact (its restoration reminded me a lot of Seokguram in South Korea) but it is also possible to visit its interior, which is most definitely its highlight (even though photography isn't allowed). Apparently the tomb is closed in winter and in summer it is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.

I drove pretty early to the area, well ahead of the opening hours, so I had some time to kill which I spent exploring the nearby 4th and 3rd century BC razed Getic fortification and citadel remains, which together with the Sveshtari tomb make up what is called the Sboryanovo Archaeological Reserve. No matter how diverse and interesting Thracian heritage might be, time, destruction and rebuilding in times of war and peace, continual habitation, and treasure-hunting have wiped out a lot of it, reducing it to a set of tombs and shrines here, a treasure there, and a shrine in what today appears to be the middle of nowhere (a stark contrast when compared to the Kazanlak tomb!). Today archaeological research of the remains continues, but the trenches and low stone walls are not particularly spectacular. The south city wall can be seen passing through the main road from the Sveshtari Tomb to the village of Malak Porovets. Another piece of the fortifications, from the 3rd to 1st century BC, is in the Polyanata area, west of the Thracian city. 

The area has been actively researched since the early 1980s, and has so far proved fertile ground for archaeologists, revealing not only astonishing architecture and gold treasures, but also important information about the religion, economy and social life of the Thracians. From the second half of the first millennium BC until the times of the Romans, the region was home to the Getae, a mighty and populous Thracian tribe which controlled the lands on both sides of the Danube. The Getae appeared in written historical sources in the 6th Century BC, when they were conquered by the Persians, and later fought, with varying success, with ancient Macedonia and the heirs of Alexander the Great. Research at Sboryanovo shows that at least in the 4th and 3rd centuries BC this region was the centre of the political power for the Getae kings. Two of them, Cothelas and Dromichaetes, who played a significant role in international politics of the day, are believed to have been buried in Sboryanovo. However, the end of the Thracian city at Sboryanovo came with a bang. It was destroyed for good by a strong earthquake around 250 BC. 

At the Sveshtari tomb area, I paid for my ticket and English speaking guide and surprisingly we set off together towards the entrance of the first mound. Beneath the mound and above the tomb itself, there now is a concrete protective layer which I find is an excellent way of preserving the site while not only provided limited access but also preserve the way the tomb/mound looked like during Thracian times. Nowadays, the tomb is like a top-security vault, with an alarm which is deactivated by a long key kept by the guide. Once the alarm is deactivated, a modern system helps maintain a microclimate within the tomb area and constantly monitors tempature and humidity levels. Before viewing the tomb itself, there are a few plexiglass information boards and a UNESCO WHS inscription plaque (there are a couple of other brown signs outside too before getting to the tomb itself and just in front of it), and a few exhibits and photos, which although would have been ideally placed outside to have more time to read them, are a way of allowing time to the microclimate system to balance any changes brought about by opening the tomb and by the visitors' breathing. Plastic disposable shoe covers are also given prior to heading to the tomb proper.

The tomb was discovered in 1982 in one of the biggest mounds of the eastern necropolis known as Ginina Mogila. It is made up of three rooms that have unusual barrel-vaulted ceilings supported by four Doric and one Corinthian columns. The entrance is decorated with rectangular red frescoed columns and an epistyle with a frieze of ox heads, rosettes and garlands. The burial chamber is decorated with a fresco of an imposing woman crowning a rider with a wreath although it is barely visible in the photo. The main highlight of the tomb are the sculptures of 10 caryatids that line the walls of the room. These are sculpted out of limestone; the women have disproportionate bodies, intricately carved dresses and sturdy faces with wide-opened eyes, which captivate the visitor in the claustrophobically narrow chamber. Historians believe that the Sveshtari caryatids represent the all-mighty Great Goddess of the Thracians. She is also the tall woman in the fresco, depicted at the moment she brings immortality to the deified owner of the tomb. Relying on circumstantial evidence, some scientists go as far as to claim to know who the deceased was: King Dromichaetes, who ruled over the Getae between the end of the 4th and the first decade of the 3rd century BC.

The other mound next to that of Sveshtari is believed to be the tomb of Cothelas. It has a barrel shaped rusty metal entrance just in front of it and is currently out of bounds as archaeological work is still ongoing. That said, the security guard on duty let me have a peak and at least for the time being it seems there isn't much to see. A rather long loop will lead you to a few other minor necropoli sites (best visible remain on site looks like a small dolmen) and back to the parking lot.

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