First published: 30/09/23.

Clyde 2.5

Walled City Of Baku

Walled City of Baku (Inscribed)

Walled City of Baku by Clyde

I visited this WHS in 2023 shortly after the Formula 1 Grand Prix organised around the Walled City of Baku. The metal/concrete protection on the fortified walls was still there as were the spectator stands and lack of painted road signs (really messy when driving through Old Baku towards Gobustan).

It is easier to appreciate the remaining walls around the old city of Baku from outside, especially near the city gates and double gates. From within the city walls, there will most likely always be a stark contrast between Old Baku and the modern high rise buildings outside the city walls. Earthquakes have devasted most of the historic buildings several times throughout history and as recently as the year of Baku's inscription on the WH list. Especially most of the residential buildings (with their wide wooden balconies) within the city walls have collapsed and have either never been rebuilt or have been rebuilt in a dull modern style. Therefore, the remaining historic buildings within the city walls stand out.

The Baylar Mosque is worth visiting inside for its architecture. It has been converted into a Koran Museum with a permanent sacred relics exhibition. The Mohammed Mosque and Minaret dates back to 1078-1079 and stands at the heart of Old Baku between the city's two main highlights: the Maiden Tower and the Palace of the Shirvanshahs. Other noteworthy buildings worth visiting in Baku are the Gasim Hey Hammam, the National Museum of History, the Ismailiyya Palace, the Nizami Museum of Azerbaijan Literature and the Teze Pir Mosque.

The Maiden Tower is situated in the southeastern part of the "Icheri-Shahar" (Baku Fortress), referred to by visiting traders as the "Acropolis of Baku". This unique cylindrical monument supported by a solid narrow and roundish addition was built in two periods. It is believed that the "tower part" of the monument till 13.7 metres dates back from the 7th and 6th centuries BC. The height of the tower is 29.5 metres while its diameter is 16.5 metres. The thickness of the walls is 5 metres at the base, 4 metres at the top. The tower is eight storeys high and is built of coastal rock. Each of the 8 floors of the tower has a round loophole and the floors are connected by a stone staircase. Daylight penetrates the tower through these loopholes which are wider inside. Apart from the view from the top, by visiting the tower's interior you'll be able to see the 13.5 metres deep well pit on the second floor. On the southwestern part of the tower there are some Kufi inscriptions. Around the Maiden Tower there is the open-air State Historical and Ethnographic Reserve as well as a few remaining residential buildings housing local arts and crafts. Just near the entrance to the tower is a bronze plan of the walled city which is also a UNESCO WHS inscription plaque.

The Palace of the Shirvanshahs ensemble was built in the 15th century and is situated on the highest point of one of the hills of Baku and is spread over three terraces so as to be seen as truly mighty especially from sea. The buildings are crowned with cupolas with the well-proportioned portals and minaret, adorned with deep carvings and elaborate masonry. The ensemble contains: the residential building of 3 Shirvanshahs, the Divankhana for official receptions and state meetings, the Turbe or Shirvanshahs' family tomb, remains of the Keygubad Mosque and the hammam. The two-storied residential building is the biggest and oldest monument of the ensemble with more than 50 premises of different forms and sizes, connected by 3 spiral staircases. It now houses a lot of interesting artefacts and carpets inside and around its exterior there are huge inscription remains of the Bayil Fortress. The highlight inside is the highly adorned octangular vestibule that connects it with the palace's four entrances. Last but not least is the octangular Mausoleum of Seyyid Yahya Bakuvi (also known as the dervish's mausoleum) with a pyramid-shaped top and a very narrow opening and staircase in front of it which leads beneath it to the plain tomb. The best places for a panoramic viewpoint of the palace are the cafes with a terrace just next to the Italian Embassy and the free Museum of Miniature Books.

I was lucky to stay within the walled city of Baku for a good number of days. This was crucial to be able to watch the old city wake up early in the morning just after sunrise (the best light for most of the city monuments), but especially to avoid the rush hour traffic to get to Baku. The contrast between old and new Baku is interesting closer to the Caspian sea promenade but quite of an eyesore in other places just outside of the walled city. I was very surprised by the nightlife with cafes, bar and restaurants open till late everyday. I particularly enjoyed the "Nar"/Pomegranate wine and the Shah plov or pilaf, as well as the excellent cherry meat stew dish topped with a piece of dough as if it were a pie. 

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