I visited this WHS in June 2017. I had already seen the snow capped Western Tien Shan mountains from afar in Turkestan, Kazakhstan and while crossing the border to Uzbekistan. However, since I had more free time available in Tashkent and since the best month to visit the inscribed reserves in Kazakhstan is in April/May (especially for flora), I opted for a very long day trip from Tashkent in Uzbekistan to the Bashkizilsay area of the Chatkal State Biosphere Nature Reserve.

We left Tashkent with a private driver very early before sunrise heading towards Nevich on a 4x4 vehicle. We arrived near Nevich after 90 minutes on tarmac roads as it is only 65km from the Uzbek capital. The 4x4 vehicle came in handy from there onwards as we drove offroad, zigzagging uphill on what seemed like tractor trails on semi-cultivated hills. The blue glacial streams from the still snowy Tien Shan mountain peaks (35+ degrees when we visited in June!) got bigger and the small dwellings and ski 'resorts' got smaller the further on we drove. We stopped at around 900-1000m above sea level and started a moderate 9 hour loop hike up to around 1500-1600m in the Bashkizilsay area with a local mountain guide we had picked up near Nevich.

The UNESCO nomination file map and coordinates came in handy when organizing the trip and the guide took us on a moderate loop hike to appreciate the coniferous trees, gorges, small waterfalls, Tien Shan mountain scenery (bottom left photo), flora, fauna, etc. along the way. On the way back we hiked back on the other side of the gorge, going downhill towards the glacial water stream. The sound of the gushing water was incredible considering that we visited during summer at relatively high temperatures. The guide used the deep watercourse as a sort of reference point as the name given in the UNESCO nomination file actually refers to the the mountain slopes (or mesoslopes) on both sides of the Bashkyzylsaya watercourse (hence, Bashkizilsay area!). Apparently it is very dangerous to hike here in Spring because of the risk of avalanches.

The variety and amounts of flora is impressive and the vibrant colours enhance the green Chatkal mountain ridges. I'm no botanical expert but my personal favourite was the purple and yellow iris (top left photo). Birds of prey were abundant but not too active because of the heat (mostly griffon vultures, kites and falcons). There were several finches and other small passerine birds I still have to identify when I have some time. However, June is the best time to spot different kinds of butterflies here and we effortlessly so at least 20 different kinds of butterflies (my favourite was the orange one, top right photo).

Even though the Western Tien Shan mountains were inscribed for the natural beauty and importance, there are countless rock art engravings on practically every other flat rock face, some reachable (bottom right photo) and some which nowadays are less reachable but all depicting some sort of mountain ibex or 'stick men'. Tamgaly's WHS represents the highest concentration of rock art in Kazakhstan and Central Asia or perhaps the one with the widest variety but I wouldn't be surprised if any of the Stans try the transnational extension card.

After the long hike under the scorching sun, we headed back to Tashkent for a hot bath and a lovely foot massage (which helped me and especially my partner appreciate the OUV of this WHS!). All in all, I'm glad to have visited the Uzbek part of this WHS as I could better understand its transnational value since the surrounding Tien Shan mountain scenery was literally transnational and the mountain guide himself had difficulties to pin-point which part was Kazakhstan and which part was Kyrgyzstan. I'm glad I completed Uzbekistan's WHS but if I'll revisit it will surely be for the grand Timur monuments and not for the natural beauty of the Tien Shan mountains (which can easily be appreciated by visiting the summer resorts around the Lake Charvak reservoir further North from Tashkent).