First published: 06/04/24.

Cugelvance 0

La Camargue

La Camargue (On tentative list)

La Camargue by CugelVance

I visited the camargue region on thursday,the 21st of march. I took the bus a50 in Arles at 7.38am( bus stop "lamartine" near the railway station,the bus a50 also stops there) and arrived in Saint-Maries-de-la-Mer around 8.30am.First I went directly to the church "Notre-Dame-de-la-Mer which is a place of pilgrimage for France's gypsies/gitanes as saint sarah also known as  "sarah the black " is the patron saint for that ethnic group. 

The church was open at that time and quite interesting to pass 10-15 minutes there.The interior of the church is full of devotional items, pictures, objects left behind by pilgrims... the opposite of bare or baroque and not at all the typical Catholic church you would expect to find. Every year, on the 24th of may, the small town of Saint-Maries is full or better overcrowded with gitanes/gypsies from all over france and even from other european countries honouring Saint Sarah by carrying her statue down to the sea  to re-enact her arrival in France.

After that short visit there I went to a bike rental shop named "the bike saintois" which is just a stone's throw away from the church.They had just opened their doors when I arrived.Within 5 minutes I had my bike and was on the way out of town towards the so-called "digue a la mer".The bike shop employee had given me two maps, one showing the various bike routes through the Camargue and one focusing on Saint-Maries and the surrounding area.

Since it was still quite early in the morning and I had time till 18.00 to return the bike I decided to take the red route "Tour du Vacares",the longest route (about 72 km), but the one that allows you to go around the heart of the Camargue, the Etang de Vaccares. An Etang is a type of shallow inland lake that is typical of the Camargue. The Etang de Vaccares is the largest in the Camargue.

In hindsight I would have taken a different route as it was quite strenuous and I was in a race against time at the end.I should have rented an e-bike instead of a mountain bike.Anyway!

The first section of the route along the "digue a la mer" till the "phare de la gacholle,a lighthouse,was a pure pleasure for my sore eyes as you could see countless different birds,mainly flamingos in their natural habitat,pure magic. 

To the left and right of the bike path were shallow lakes full of birds and impressive landscapes. The weather was perfect for cycling, around 22+ and sunny with clouds.

The second section of the route from the lighhouse to the tiny hamlet of Villeneuve was also quite pleasant.However, there was no possibility to buy anything to drink or eat until Villeneuve. I was pretty hungry and had a strong craving for a cold beer after about 3.5 hours on the bike. Luckily there was an inn restaurant in Villeneuve that offered a plat du jour, a dish of the day. I stayed there longer than planned and enjoyed two cold beers and a decent meal, bull steak and side dishes.Around 14.30 I was once again on my way back to Saint-Maries. The third section between Villeneuve and Mejanes was less pleasant because you had to take an asphalted road on which there was little traffic, but the locals raced along the same road at high speeds, so you were always a little tense as soon as you heard a car behind you. It took me about an hour for this route.

The fourth and final section from Mejanes back to Saint-Maries was in some ways the most beautiful, the most strenuous and the one with the worst bike path. There was no car traffic there. You could see hundreds if not thousands of flamingos there. I had never seen so many flamingos before. So I was quite impressed and kept stopping every few hundred meters. Along this route I also saw dozens of Camargue horses.

Due to lack of time I didnt make it to the Ornithological Park of Pont de Gau which closes its door at 17.00( longer opening times in the summer months).I gave my bike back at around 17.40. A bit tired and exhaused I strolled through Saint-Maries till 18.15 when I took the bus from the first bus stop in that seaside town near the  town beach.

As for Saint-Maries it is a clean and pleasant seaside town that is fully geared towards tourism.The town beaches are nothing special,and neither is the town itself something from another dimension. Those places are a dime a dozen around the mediterrean sea.A pure waste of time for any world heritage traveller to spend more than one hour there. 

As for the Camargue, I'm undecided...in my opinion, the cultural component is absolutely irrelevant and insignificant.
The rare large haciendas that I saw there were nothing special in terms of architecture.
However, I am not a specialist in ornithology...there is no doubt that the Camargue is a wonderful nature reserve that quickly captivates you. Nevertheless, I personally don't see any ouv... but I'm not 100% sure... I lack too much background knowledge.

The route I chose was extremely interesting, but also strenuous with a normal mountain bike (20€ for the entire day).
My recommendation is to ride this route with an ebike or along the dam(digue)  from Saint-Maries to the lighthouse and then back and then again from Saint-Maries to the Ornithological Park of Pont de Gau and from there back along the route "bac du sauvage". to Saint-Maries.The bus back to Arles costs 1€ and was very empty when I took the bus at 6:15 p.m. The last one leaves an hour later...more frequently in the summer months.

All in all it was an enchanting excursion  that I enjoyed with all my heart and would repeat at any time. A future world heritage site?? I doubt it

 

Comments

No comments yet.

Log in to post a comment