When I first became aware that there exists such a thing as 'World Heritage', the Altamira Cave rose quickly to the very top on my list to visit. Such a magnificent, but also exclusive, site. You had to pre-book a visit 3 years before! One day I’ll go there, I thought. I’ll just reserve a spot and travel there to see this work of art. But what happened? The cave got closed to the general public entirely in 2001!

Years and years (and many WHS) later, I stayed for a couple of days in Llanes, a town close enough for a trip to Altamira. One can visit only a replica nowadays, and since 2008 other paleolithic caves in the area have been added to this particular WHS. So the Altamira Cave isn’t so unique anymore. However, I noticed on the official Altamira website that it is even possible / recommended to pre-book your visit to the replica cave too!

On a Saturday in August, I decided to take my chances and just show up. I arrived at 9.50, early enough to beat most of the Spanish who don’t seem to get going before 11 a.m. Buying a ticket was no problem then. Entrance to the museum is free, and you pay 3 EUR for visiting the replica cave. You’re only allowed into this what they call ‘New Cave’ at a fixed timeslot, in groups of about 40-50 in a 10-minute interval. They do build up the expectations with a large door that opens up and a video. But what a disappointment the rest is! It is fake and it looks like it. The famous Chamber of the paintings has been reduced to a corner in a museum setting. I seriously thought that the 'replica cave' still had to come, when I saw the Salida (Exit) sign.

To wash away the dirty taste, I decided to go and visit another cave in the inscribed area. A lot of the others are either closed to the public too or have strict limits on visitor numbers so you’ll have to pre-book or be early. I had done some research beforehand and had decided upon El Castillo which didn’t appear to have these limitations. The El Castillo cave system is located just outside Puente Viesgo (20 min from Altamira).

And fortunately: Yes, this is a cave as it ought to be. The interior is cold, dark and slippery. It is quite a large cave system and dripstone has formed abundantly. For 3 EUR you get a 45-minute tour by a guide in a small group of about 15 people. The guide points out the paintings with light. Bisons in various sizes and postures. Symbols. And hands, lots of hands. I thought these only existed in the Cueva de Los Manos in Argentina but they are quite common among paleolithic cave paintings. I'm glad I got to see those.

P.S.: I'd love to read a review of this WHS by someone who has been into the "real" Altamira cave (before 2001)!