The tension rises during the 18km approach from the highway to this town. Tiny villages and derelict mining sites (with the appropriate desolate apartment blocks) alternate. Déjà vu: Alaverdi, Armenia (close to the Haghpat WHS). You just wonder what is behind the next corner and what Banska Stiavnica is like. Well: the first view of its valley really makes you want to slam the brakes of the car. Elegant, colourful, and many many church spires dominate the vista. Walking its steep and cobbly streets another déjà vu hits in Ouro Preto. Banska Stiavnica is smaller and less exuberant baroque but has its Old World charm. And a number of remarkable sights: its shiny plague column of course, but also the pretty New Castle and the Knocking tower which woke the miners every morning.

In the late afternoon, I decided to check out the Calvary, which lumbers so attractively on a hill just outside town. I go by car, which proves a good choice when I notice the red faces of the hikers that I pass by. You’d better save your breath for the Calvary walk itself. There’s no sign, but when you see the Calvary at its best from the main road, there’s a turn to the left into a small paved road. At the entrance of the Cavalry there is parking space for a couple of cars. The climb along the various chapels to the church at the top takes about half an hour. There are great (Sound of Music-like) views of the surrounding meadows.

In all, it’s a worthy WHS. There’s enough to see and do to keep you busy for a full day (or more) and it also is a pleasant place to stay for the night. Beware when preparing a visit on basis of the Unesco Advisory Body documentation: the ICOMOS report on the site isn’t especially flattering and the first referral (in 1992) I think was a disgrace.